Waterlogged As Well As Smiling: Celebrating Songkran Inward Bangkok

Thai New Year's Day officially began on Mon of this yesteryear week, kicking off several days of hijinks, waterlogged afternoons as well as clay-smeared evenings. After final Saturday's deadly protests hither inwards Bangkok, I was curious to run into how the notoriously wild festivities would unfold, but made the fault of approaching the province of affairs amongst a culturally dissonant, Western point-of-view.
Given that it was sandwiched betwixt a calamitous regular army crackdown as well as the cherry shirts' hope to occupy Bangkok's commercial surface area until Parliament was dissolved, I idea that maybe the traditionally raucous celebrations of Songkran would live muted.

a disputation from the urban pith to the contrary.

From Sanskrit for "astrological passage" as well as signifying a motility or alter inwards the sun's sign, the festival initially began every bit a display of observe for one's elders as well as a fourth dimension to commencement anew. It has, however, evolved into 1 hell of a waterfight. The to a greater extent than entrenched traditions, such every bit cleaning the Buddha statues amongst scented H2O as well as and thus collecting that H2O as well as pouring it over a family's elders as well as teachers to convey proficient fortune upon them, remain. Wat Po's grounds were covered inwards a serial of tents, tables as well as shrines for Songkran as well as many Bangkokians came to pay their respects, purge the bad from the prior twelvemonth as well as give alms to the monks. But present-day Songkran builds upon these traditions amongst abandon, as well as spirits Thai youth (and elders too!) into a maelstrom of smiles as well as soaked apparel as well as layers upon layers of clay.

The clay: no 1 told me virtually this purpose of the festivities. Tiny pyramids of clay are sold inwards bags for v baht and, 1 time dissolved inwards water, add together to the hilarity of an already out-of-the-ordinary few days. Initially, the clay was meant to ward away evil spirits as well as supply protection, but every bit amongst the residue of Songkran, it has evolved (devolved?) into an excuse to smear the human face upwardly of a passerby every bit thoroughly every bit possible. I flora myself reaching into the bowls of passing clay-bearers to render the favour, unremarkably resulting inwards a clay-off that had both of us drenched as well as trying non to swallow whatever of the goopy stuff.

Thai New Year's Day officially began on Mon of this yesteryear calendar week Waterlogged as well as Smiling: Celebrating Songkran inwards Bangkok
Red shirt protesters celebrate Songkran. Image from CNNGo's Songkran gallery.

Day 1 of Songkran'ing was amongst the digital nomads: Gary Arndt wrapped his photographic idiot box camera inwards a plastic bag, as well as joined me as well as Cody McKibben, Sean Ogle, Nikki Scott, as well as Sarah Lipman for a foray into the bowels of Khao San Road. The 2nd nosotros stepped out of the cab, nosotros were drenched - as well as the hateful solar daytime continued from there. For a relatively brusque street, it took us good over an sixty minutes to walk through it, stopped yesteryear the constant stream of waterfights, clay-smearing as well as of course, the adult woman inwards a frog costume standing on a phase amongst a supersoaker. The street was filled amongst Thai people every bit well, pressing through the throngs of people, smiling as well as screaming 'Happy New Year!' every bit they poured a bucket of H2O ice mutual depression temperature H2O on my head.

Thai New Year's Day officially began on Mon of this yesteryear calendar week Waterlogged as well as Smiling: Celebrating Songkran inwards Bangkok
I shout out upwardly the elephant is winning this Khao San battle. Image from CNNGo's Songkran gallery.

We made the fault of sharing a tuk-tuk dorsum to Victory Monument area, as well as our driver gleefully slowed downward at every street corner, allowing those gathered at that topographic point to soak us fifty-fifty further. When I returned from the giant waterfight, I realized that piece my Soi (side street) was lovely on whatever given day, it was a gauntlet of hell during Songkran. The motorbike taxi drivers dumped three buckets of H2O over my caput on the means into the street, as well as thus iv children chased me downward amongst supersoakers as well as babe powder. Then, closer to my apartment, a dozen of the street's residents were waiting, blocking my path: to a greater extent than buckets of water, clay, a osculate on the cheek from each of them as well as a mandatory shot of Thai whiskey. This whole concern repeated itself when I stepped out for Day 2.

Thai New Year's Day officially began on Mon of this yesteryear calendar week Waterlogged as well as Smiling: Celebrating Songkran inwards Bangkok
Me as well as 1 of the many people on my Soi who doused me amongst water. I honey the girl's appear inwards the background.

For my 2nd day, I went out amongst Cod, a Thai friend amongst a flatbed truck, a cooler of beer as well as a much meliorate feel of direction than me. We drove amongst several of his friends into the middle of the Songkran-y action: Silom road.On both sides, traffic moved at a crawl every bit groups of people darted out betwixt the cars amongst their waterguns, buckets of H2O as well as clay. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 firetruck had stopped simply nether Sala Daeng BTS Station as well as was thoroughly soaking anyone inside accomplish of its hose. No 1 was exempt from the madness of Songkran - fifty-fifty the police describe assigned to the surface area were hunched together exterior a 7/11, fully clay-ed upwardly as well as soaked to the bone.

Overall, it was 1 of the most fun few days I've had on this trip, that much to a greater extent than poignant afterwards witnessing the mayhem of the prior week's bloody crackdown. Highly recommended, amongst the next tips: article of apparel your swimsuit nether your clothes, double ziploc handbag all your electronics as well as hold smiling. You won't regret it.
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