Last stayed March 2013 - visited November 2014
Chill Out Bar on Farang (Charlie) Beach Ko Muk - non a bad identify to pass fourth dimension to a greater extent than or less sunset.
The tip of the lovely white sandspit, eastern most indicate of Ko Muk (image Sivalai Beach Resort)
Ko Muk is the most visited of the Trang islands. Perhaps this is its problem, because my 2nd (March 07) see showed the identify has gone downhill considerably since the belatedly 90s. At to the lowest degree the most pop Farang Beach expanse had. The less visited due east coast seemed every bit serene every bit normal too the lovely white-sand spit on the SE corner of the isle where the novel luxury SIVALAI BEACH RESORT has located, is indeed ..... lovely.
Farang Beach from Koyoo Restaurant too Bar on the southern headland 2013. Note means to a greater extent than sand than inwards moisture flavor shot below - some is due to tide differences (you tin come across the high tide grade above) but most due to tempest moving ridge erosion inwards the lower shot.
Seasonal contrast - Farang (Charlie) Beach June 2010 - moisture flavor sees practiced body of body of water swell ( I caught some okay torso waves despite onshore conditions - a few tricky rips to a greater extent than or less so the inexperienced should live careful inwards conditions similar this), no boats, a total of v visitors inwards the whole greater Farang Beach area. Koyoo Restaurant closed - had to force thru protective hession "fence" to gain access to headland for this shot.
I establish this non bad shot on booking site AGODA'S page for Had Farang Bungalows. Too practiced to ignore so I knicked it. Blowed if I'd live climbing upwardly at that spot - at that spot is no trekking rail so it's bush-bashing baby. I HATE bush-bashing.
I wrote this after the 2007 visit:
FARANG BEACH is yet a pretty prissy place, but non outstanding every bit it was when I start visited nearly 10 years ago. The sand is fairly white, but non blinding white every bit before. The H2O is deep for swimming at all tides, fairly clear but non the pristine of old, largely because inwards 2007 at that spot were e'er at to the lowest degree iii cruising yachts, a twosome of motor cruisers too a dozen+ longtails parked off the beach. It is rare for the quondam to receive got holding tanks for sewage too longtails tend leak fuel too lubricant. The whole expanse dorsum of beach is crammed amongst bungalows addition KO MUK CHARLIE'S pool. It is getting a fighting crowded dorsum there.
There is a bunch of critics blaming people who write too postal service photos nearly the diverse islands for the subsequent over-popularity of the places. I come across it every bit inevitable that every bit fourth dimension passes to a greater extent than people volition visit. Fares teach cheaper, to a greater extent than people travel. It is non every bit though Thai bungalow/hotel people, ferry operators, daytrip companies, booking sites etc don’t know how to force their materials inwards the media.
The thought that nosotros should jealously guard our favourite spots is extremely selfish too soooo similar those mega-immature wankers inwards that mass past times Alex Garland. My reports may inwards fact convince people that sure as shooting places are feeling the strain too should maybe live avoided if this worries you.
Of course, increased popularity does non hateful the identify necessarily goes downhill. Chalok Ban Kao on Ko Tao for instance is much to a greater extent than presentable these days than inwards the mid-90s.
Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 lot of it is upwardly to the Thais. For instance at that spot is so much Charlie could do to brand its identify to a greater extent than attractive. It desperately needs to a greater extent than paths too landscaping. The quondam chalk white sand betwixt the bungalows is becoming pretty muddy from dust carried/blown inwards from the cross-island track, which continues thru Charlie every bit a right-of-way. There is a prissy bunch of trees at the dorsum of the beach at the southern end, inwards forepart of Charlies’ expensive fan bungalows. Great for some shade too a swing inwards a hammock. Pity nearly the piles of edifice debris too equipment which has a weathered been at that spot since final moisture season’s refurbishing computer program await nearly them. Hell, that was exclusively six month’s ago!
UPDATE MARCH 2013 - PROGRESS
Things much improved. Junk had been cleared below the trees salve for this rather fetching antique. The paths to a greater extent than or less Charlie seemed neater. Farang beach may live non live every bit striking every bit at neighbouring Kradan or Ngai but it matches or beats beaches on state Lanta, Lipe or Bulon Lae. And inwards 2013 I establish bungalow prices means cheaper than all those others except Lanta.
March 07 - I jumped off the longtail from Ko Kradan at Farang too went looking for a bungalow.
KO MUK CHARLIE was hopelessly overpriced - 1050 for a beachfront fan bungalow including breakfast too 950 for a 2nd rower. 2007! Must live some breakfast. Hey, you lot also teach complimentary usage of Charlies novel beachfront pool. Jeez, somehow that wasn’t a clincher for me.
Cool puddle - inwards high flavor 2007 at that spot was a brace of Scando bikini babes draped across the far rim amongst highball glasses, too the sunlounges were packed - hither inwards depression flavor June 2010 I was the exclusively user. Hell, the start dark at Charlie I was the exclusively invitee at the resort! Okay, I didn't heed the lack of a crowd at the puddle - ripped off 50 laps without some lilliputian youngster amongst a ball getting inwards the way. btw - at that spot is a kiddie's puddle out of shot far right.
Interesting story from 2 local sources - Charlie got an offering from a Swedish vacation wholesaler that if he set inwards a puddle they could guarrantee a huge release of invitee nights. Charlie aint no mug.
Hession "fence" is mainly to hold moisture flavor winds from blowing leaves etc into puddle - is removed high season. Beach is maybe 30m away.
I sneaked dorsum for a shot inwards March 2013 - at 400baht for non-Charlie guests I didn't linger.
March07 - Charlie dominates the beach, but SAWASDEE has nearly 10 bungalows over inwards the northern corner. Some are beachfront too looked pretty nice. 700 baht too all taken.
Sawasdee inwards June 2010 - completely closed for moisture season, which disappointed me because I intended to remain inwards i of the 4 or v closest the body of body of water which receive got prissy views across the beach.
Intriguingly these bungalows receive got been upgraded since my 07 see despite large developer The Central Group buying the articulation several years ago. Looks similar Central hasn't whatsoever curt term plans for a large Farang Beach Resort.
So inwards March 2013 I managed to grab a 800 baht Sawadee bungalow. That's chez tezza inwards a higher identify left. Nothing flash nearly this identify - traditional fan bungalow amongst bath - comfy but showing a fighting of wearable too tear. But value pretty practiced - I haven't seen some other ocean-front bungalow inwards the southward or primal Andaman nether M inwards high flavor for several years.
Sawadee takes the northern 30% of Faramg beach - Charlie the rest. That's the Sawadee associated Chill Out Divers/Chill Out Bar closest - Sawadee resraurant is dorsum a lilliputian to the left too the bungalows are behind those trees farther left.
Sawadee's bungalows - exclusively the start few on the eating seat side receive got beach views....
....no beach thought but my shack had a prissy outlook towards Ko Kradan.
Sawadee's beachfront eating seat had prissy nutrient at prices I considered a fighting below average for Thailand budget bungalow joints too means cheaper than at following Kos Kradan too Ngai. Okay service too a practiced go desk.
Sawadee set on a beachfront bbq each dark which attracted quite a crowd, many from other resorts....
....although Charlie's tables on the sand had no shortage of takers.
2007: So I moved inwards thru Charlie on the right-of-way too less than 100m along the cross-island rail I establish HAD FARANG BUNGALOWS on the left. This identify had a fair few traditional manner bungalows amongst attached bathroom, spread to a greater extent than or less an old kokosnoot plantation - most of them on a hillside which gave a pleasant outlook over the area. The bungalows were slightly dilapidated too a fighting squeezy for 2 people+gear, but relatively practiced value for 400baht.
Some of the huts at HAD FARANG BUNGALOWS inwards June 2010. This identify appeared to live opened upwardly inwards depression flavor but had no guests. I would receive got stayed in i lawsuit to a greater extent than except I similar to endeavour novel joints when I can.
2007 HAD FARANG also had a non bad eating seat amongst genuinely tasty food, at absolutely sensational value.
Note that several local expats told me that Had Farang Bungalows has been purchased past times the large CENTRAL belongings group, so at that spot could live a flash resort at that spot presently UPDATE 2010 - NOPE, SEE BELOW RESTARAUNT PIC. However Central will desire beachfront too, pregnant either Charlie or Sawasdee should teach the large offering soon.
This is a June 2010 shot of Hat Farang Bungalow's NEW RESTAURANT - this classy looking articulation represents a sizable investment - the administration has non changed so The Central Group must receive got given them a pretty long-tem lease. UPDATE - yet going rigid inwards March 2013. Wally across at Ko Kradan told me iii months previously that all this Central Group matter is maybe a fighting exaggerated. Wally is a friend of Charlie who developed Ko Mook Charlie. btw Had Farang Bungalow seemed to live refurbishing bungalows to a greater extent than or less the fourth dimension of my visit. And I only noticed th identify is at nowadays listed on booking site AGODA - the aircon superior rooms do await several steps upwardly from the criterion garden bungalow I stayed inwards - the acquaint ones await a footstep upwardly too.
MAYOW KITCHEN is betwixt Hat Farang Bungalow too Charlie. This identify was pretty depression key inwards my start 2 visits but past times March 2013 it had developed quite a practiced rep for fantabulous nutrient - I went across for dinner too yep, tucker non bad too prices a bargain. Very crowded - some subsequently invitee had to sit down at the exterior tables. Apparently they receive got some alive music subsequently inwards the evening.
This identify has added bungalows over the years too was i of the start I tried on arrival inwards 2013 (I didn't remember beachfront Sawadee would receive got vacancies) but the identify was booked out. March aint precisely high flavor - Mayow (and Ko Mook) are pretty popular.
Across the other (southern) side of the cross-island rail from Mayow Kitchen is RUBBER TREE BUNGALOWS amongst practiced looking bungalows spaciously arranged on a hillside - looked pretty nice.
TRIP REPORT section.
UPDATE - this is some other I tried for a vacancy inwards March 2013. No luck too this identify has placidity a few bungalows. Had a practiced crowd inwards the eating seat for tiffin when I was checking - prices fantabulous too some other amongst a rep for practiced food.
RIP MOOKIE'S
Another 150m upwardly the rail is a identify novel to me inwards 2013, TING TONG. The old Mookie's Bar is genuinely behind this articulation - the Thais operating Ting Tong told me the Euros running Mookie's after Aussie Brian sold out had gone abode - they were due dorsum for a see but it was doubtful if Mookie's would reopen (I would welcome whatsoever update on this from subsequently visitors).
Ting Tong was operating Mookie's tents too bungalows - both 300baht. The bungalows had to to live the dry out flavor teach by of the Andaman away from maybe lilliputian Ko Chang too some upstairs from stores places on Phuket too Lanta - too maybe Khao Lak. Admittedly the bungalows receive got to portion the tents' exterior bathrooms, but 300 - almost similar the practiced old days.
Some of the old Mookie's tents. It was threatening pelting when I got off the ferry inwards June 2010 so I passed these past times - but iii divers who also landed grabbed some too said they were quite comfy. That dark inwards Mookies Bar at that spot were the iii divers, me, a Brazilian guy staying at Mayow, Mayaw's possessor (a sugariness local guy) too Mookie's host Brian. The other travellers left following twenty-four hours too that dark at that spot were only Brian too me. In high flavor the identify was packed.
Earlier Updates: 2011 - Sessa who stayed at Mookies inwards February 2011 told me the identify was at nowadays beingness run past times friendly Brits Nasha too Alex*. Nasha's mobilphone: +66 080-561-1781 or Alex +66 082-498-3228. In high flavor it's frequently total booked. Sessa has a multi-destination trip study HERE which has information too pix on Kradan too Mookies.
2012 - Mookie's has got a website http://mookiesbar.blogspot.com/p/contact.html
- looks similar the novel owners receive got added some bungalows which is practiced news.
* the Thais at Ting Tong 2013 told me the Euro owners of Mookie's were Germans or Swedes. So maybe the identify changed hands in i lawsuit to a greater extent than after Sessa's visit.
A existent prissy identify to grab a potable (or meal) during the day/early eve is KOYOO RESTAURANT AND BAR which stretches along the southern headland of the beach. It aint rattling high, but the thought upwardly at that spot is surprisingly panoramic (see beach shots upwardly page), non exclusively over the beach but across to Ngai too Kradan. Not to rear the sunsets. Listen, cypher flash nearly this place, rickety tables too plastic chairs, but amongst the views too 70baht large Changs (2007), who’s complaining?
I noticed quite a lot to a greater extent than people grabbing meals hither inwards 2013 than before visits.
Now here's a find. HilltTOP Restaurant at the..um..top of the loma on the cross isle rail maybe iii minutes on from Ting Tang. I must receive got walked past times this identify a dozen times over the years but made a indicate to telephone outcry upwardly inwards March 2013 after mudshark sent us his Muk trip report. He's non incorrect - the nutrient is fantabulous too the prices are amazingly depression for the Andaman. The boss-mama had a bunch of her greater identify unit of measurement on mitt including immature ones too doesn't heed swapping some youngster nursing amongst western parents. It was decidedly pop amongst the latter when I called inwards for a meal. Note sign: Open All Year.
STAYING AT KO MOOK CHARLIE BEACH RESORT
When I establish Sawadee closed for the moisture flavor inwards June 2010 I walked over to following Charlie Resort too got me a bungalow. The dude at reception wanted M which was outrageouos too so for a jumped-up backpacker bungalow inwards high season, allow lone low, notwithstanding the front-row seat too the pool. The prissy lady at KK Travel inwards Trang had told me travelers informed her they got i for 500 ("I won't endeavour to mass you lot from hither because they volition desire much more". Bless her.) - so I offered 500 too it was accepted immediately.
Hey start dark I was the exclusively invitee inwards the whole resort! Girl came over from the kitchen to a greater extent than or less 5pm when I was sinking elcheapo rum on the veranda call for if I wanted dinner - I didn't desire to hold them waiting so I said I'd teach upwardly to Mookies. On the 2nd twenty-four hours a Thai twosome moved into a front-rower a few downward from mine. Whoa - getting crowded!
Front rowers at Charlie. I'm sure as shooting these are the original backpackers' bungalows at that spot when I start visited inwards the 90s - tarted upwardly too amongst flashpacker soap, towels, shampoo, john newspaper etc, but yet the mattress-on-the-floor platform, musquito net, only plenty room for 2 people too gear, bigger-newer bathroom. Website says these are aircon - mine was fan only. No hot water. Not absolute seafront - 30m to beach amongst tree-filtered views of it from the prissy verandas. Outrageous call for cost inwards depression flavor - what do they desire for these inwards high season? Website non saying. There are bigger bungalows a fighting farther from beach - none of which struck me every bit beingness high inwards the wow factor. Charlie has a large eating seat which looks similar a pocket-size manufacturing industrial plant life cafeteria. Haven't a clue nearly prices. UPDATE 2013 - non bad at all. Maybe a fighting higher than average Andaman budget restaurants but the bunch of rattling practiced inexpensive restaurants inside a twosome of minutes walk seems to hold Charlie honest.
Around 2010 go forums got messages that cops too National Park rangers had raided Charlie Resort looking for Charlie himself. Dude was holed upwardly at his Phuket condo, so they arrested the managing director instead too carted him off to jail. The inference was that the Central Property Group was flexing its political muscles inwards putting describe per unit of measurement area on Charlie to sell out (they already receive got purchased Sawadee too Had Farang Bungalows).
Not so according to a Muk non-resident practiced friend of Charlie I talked to. He reckons National Parks had a os to selection amongst Charlie. I'll exit you lot to speculate why they powerfulness live upset.
THE EAST COAST.
It exclusively takes nearly 10 minutes to walk from Farang Beach across the gentle loma to the other side of the island. But to teach to the hamlet primal too the pier you lot receive got to veer left nigh the coast too walk some other xv minutes or so.
Village primal takes upwardly a fairly large expanse southward of the pier. Further southward in i lawsuit to a greater extent than is a novel department of housing built after the tsunami. About 400m westward of the pier is a collection of a few dozen fishermens' housing (there are plenty to a greater extent than scattered on the department of shore to the left of the 0 on the distance scale) too for a curt distance left of the pier..
As seen above, the hamlet comes inwards iii parts. The start department reached from Farang Beach is non far from the left plough mentioned upwardly page - is a newer department of housing set inwards over a cleared mangrove to the southward of the hamlet primal - this is post-tsunami resettlement fifty-fifty though Muk was non hitting difficult past times the tsunami. Some dude is offering HOME-STAYS there.
Holiday inwards the swamp. One fer you lot seekers of local culture.
Town primal isn't heavily built out - yet lotsa vacant land. We receive got hither the school, clinic, some pocket-size stores, quite a few pocket-size restaurants catering for locals too something novel on my latest see - a twosome of flasher restaurants such every bit inwards a higher identify manifestly aimed at guests from the iii resorts on the nearby sand spit.
Part of cluster of fishermens' houses cheek past times jowl to the westward of the town pier. The ones on the seas-side of the path receive got their footings inwards H2O at high tide.
RESORTS NORTH OF THE PIER
4 Places inwards all, iii budget too i flashpacker/lower midrange (Muk Resort)
There are a 2 pocket-size bungalow places inside v minutes walk of the pier only before you lot come upwardly to the fishermens' housing.
Ko Muk Coco Lodge is the start from the pier - pretty attractive bungalows inwards a fairly ordinary setting. I noticed on my latest 2013 pass-by that the identify had a novel seaside bar across the other side of the path amongst views to the rugged mainland coast. The views are nice, but the beach inwards this expanse is pretty dire - lots of longtails, lots of muddy sand too stone when the tide drops. I remember these places nigh the pier are pop amongst domestic visitors.
Sessa stayed at Coco inwards January 2011 - she has some pix on her trip report HERE.
Mook Anda Resort is a lilliputian farther north.
When I ambled past times Anda latest see some farang backpacker types were staying inwards these tents. Good sign for you lot people looking for accommodation at peak when most places may live total - too for you lot camping ground enthusiasts too bottom-budget travellers.
If you lot force on north of the hamlet for some other v minutes you lot accomplish a department of coast where KO MUK RESORT too KO MOOK GARDEN RESORT are located. This expanse has existent prissy views towards the spectacular karst headlands of the mainland coast, but the beach gets rattling ordinary at depression tide amongst large expanses of dark sand too stone exposed.
This was no work when I stayed at Ko Muk Resort dorsum inwards '99 - they set on a complimentary boat to a greater extent than or less to Farang Beach each day. I saw no sign of the notice advising nearly this when I revisited for a beer inwards 2007. If not, you lot are looking at xl minutes walk across to Farang beach - xv minutes to the nicest department of the spit inwards forepart of the Sivalai (btw all beaches inwards Thailand are owned past times the King for the complimentary usage of his subjects too guests. Don't allow safety at flash resorts youngster you lot the beach is private. UPDATE MARCH 2013 - Muk Resort reception told me they didn't receive got a complimentary shuttle these days. Motorcycles are available for hire, no bicycles.
My old, fairly spacious bungalow amongst bath inwards the garden out dorsum looked unchanged, too was available for 300baht inwards 2007 before bargaining. The resort had set inwards a novel dining/drinks terrace to convey payoff of those views. Hey , pretty prissy place.
My old Ko Muk Resort bungalow was plenty changed inwards 2010. All bungalows had been extensively refurbished. There was no i to a greater extent than or less inwards June depression flavor to give me a cost update but Google should notice the website.
2013 - Whoa! Ko Muk Resort has headed upmarket. Rather prissy pool, novel to me inwards March. Prices receive got pushed upmarket too.
The forepart of the resort is similarly flashed upwardly - that's the rather panoramic bar deck at right.
Adjacent Garden Resort looks similar to the non-upgraded Ko Muk Resort of 2007. When I walked past times then, at that spot was a large grouping of Thai tourists only arriving. It was a weekend. The identify appeared closed for depression flavor 2010.
THE EASTERN SAND SPIT AREA
The sand spit expanse at nowadays has iii resorts - 2 flashpacker/lower midrange too the decidedly upmarket Sivalai.
Starting a few minutes south-east of the pier on the eastern-most tip of the isle is a gorgeous white sand spit. We used to walk across hither from Ko Muk Resort inwards 99 for a swim too some Sun too. It is at nowadays dominated past times the rattling upmarket SIVALAI RESRORT, which looks only every bit inviting. This is i identify I’m definitely gonna remain at when I unload that purse of dud sparklers on the Bangkok precious stone traders.
For some argue I've never got a decent motion-picture present of the Sivalai goal of the spit so I stole this i off booking site Agoda's page for the resort. On my start see to Muk final century at that spot was cypher but blinding white sand here. We would walk over from nearby Ko Muk Resort (second bay past times the pier) to swim - the resort possessor asked the girls to hold their tops on because of the proximity of the village. I don't remember this would live an final result amongst Sivalai.
I shot this inwards June 2010 - moisture season. If you lot click-expand you lot may live able to come across tempest moving ridge erosion on this southern side. The northern side was okay. When I walked this department inwards March 2010 the beach had rebuilt itself nicely, which is common for fine weather. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 lot of the spit expanse is known for the depression tide blues - rattling shallow water. But this does non seem much of a work towards the goal on this northern side. No user-reviews on Agoda complained of it.
NEW SINCE 2007 are 2 joints closer to the inland goal of the spit on the southern side, Koh Mook Nature Beach Resort too Pawapi.
The white buildings on the left are usage of Nature Resort - those on the right, Pawapi. In 2010 both were mainly flashpacker criterion although they had cheaper accommodation away from the beach, Pawapi the ameliorate value. Pawapi seemed the to a greater extent than traditionally Thai inwards design. Koh Mook Nature Beach Resort was usage of the same outfit which runs Ko Libong too Hat Yao Nature Resorts. Both places inwards shot were closed for depression flavor 2010 but the English linguistic communication guy running Pawapi was difficult at run getting things ready for high season. Sivalai's bungalows start maybe 50m out of motion-picture present to the right. The beach is fairly prissy inwards the expanse of the shot (REAL prissy across farther due east inwards forepart of Sivalai - which is opened upwardly to everyone).
Furthest westward is Nature Resort - looks pretty prissy inwards this 2013 shot. Beach hither non kept every bit pristine every bit at Sivalai. Water is okay but suffers the depression tide blues markedly.
Ditto at Pawapi which is a lilliputian closer to Sivalai
THE SOUTH COAST.
It is possible when the tide is non also high to walk from Farang Beach correct to a greater extent than or less the southern too south-eastern usage of the island. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 large proportion is rock-platform but at that spot are a twosome of beaches which receive got exposed stone at lower tides. There are a few fisherman huts alond here. After nearly xl minutes you lot come upwardly out to the eastward extension of the cross island-track only past times the electriciy industrial plant life for the island. It is nearly 10 minutes walk dorsum over the mild loma to Farang Beach. Theoretically you lot could instead force on along the coast to the Sivalai spit, but at that spot are some mangrove sections inwards the means which looked a fighting tricky to me.
THE EMERALD CAVE.
The N too north-west of the isle receive got sheer cliffs dropping to the H2O making the coast impossible to walk. You demand a boat or kayak to accomplish the entrance to the fabulous Emerald Cave inwards this area. Longtails run to a greater extent than or less from Farang Beach too the resorts on the due east coast (I remember the cost was 300 inwards March 07) too from neighbouring islands every bit far every bit Ko Libong. The daytrip boats from Lanta brand this a must do. There is also a constant flow of ferries from Pak Bara packed amongst domestic visitors. So unless you lot teach far early on or belatedly inwards the twenty-four hours you lot volition notice the tiny bay at the entrance to the cave crowded amongst boats of all shapes too sizes. But fifty-fifty when crowded, it is fun. Perhaps to a greater extent than so - Thai vacation makers genuinely know how to taste themselves.
The setup hither is that you lot swim nearly 200m through a tunnel (pitch dark inwards mid-sections because at that spot are some kinks inwards the tunnel) too emerge into a beautiful lagoon laid inwards a towering cliff ringed amphitheater consummate amongst pocket-size beach too some rainforest. This is a quondam cave where the roof has collapsed. The H2O inwards hither is indeed emerald - something to do amongst the limestone. Or the light. Or something.
I receive got visited iii times - twice inwards 99 via long tail too in i lawsuit to a greater extent than a calendar week before my Muk remain inwards 2012, via i the Trang Island daytrip boats out of Ko Lanta which was taking me to nearby Ko Kradan.
On the start see inwards 99, 2 Canadians too I had no torch too had to swim the darkest department of the cave inwards pitch black. Interesting. By the way, the long tail too other boat people e'er receive got torches - our boat guy’s torch was broken. Hell, the longtail‘s engine broke on the means dorsum to the resort too nosotros had to canvass the matter using the canvas canopy rigged upwardly every bit a sail.
On the other 99 visit, on a weekend, at that spot were hundreds of Thai tourists. They fifty-fifty had a cooking-boat ready exterior the cave for quick eats. The Thais typically donned the xanthous lifejackets, tied themselves to a rope too moved into the cave conga-style. Lots of laughing too shrieking. One genuinely old lady, looked nearly 90, was floated inwards on a surfing-mattress, to the thanks of all when she arrived at the lagoon.
Great place, the Emerald Cave. Don’t miss it.
- too emerge hither (image THAILANDSOUTHERN.COM)
In November 2014 I went dorsum into the cave on a 4 Islands twenty-four hours trip out of Lanta. The boat guy carried guests' cameras through the tunnel inwards a moisture bag. These panorama shots click-expand nicely.
NOTE LOW SEASON PROBLEMS - the iii divers from Pattaya who came over amongst me on the ferry inwards June 2010 wanted to do the cave, but because at that spot was a fairly large swell running locals advised that swimming upwardly the tunnel fifty-fifty at lower tide levels could live dangerous.
SNORKELLING
Muk is non known every bit a snorkelling island. Nevertheless keen people may notice plenty to brand them happy. Check out wonderingstar's fantabulous snorkelling page on Muk which contains useful maps, information too dozens of underwater too other pix at KO NGAI
KO KRADAN
KO LANTA
KO LIBONG AND HAT YAO
KO LAOLIANG
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If you lot receive got whatsoever questions, delight inquire them inwards THE FORUM rather than below. I don't teach a lead a opportunity to banking concern check all threads daily, but unless I'm travelling I'll endeavour to monitor THE FORUM regularly. Sumber http://tezzasthaiinfo.blogspot.com/
The tip of the lovely white sandspit, eastern most indicate of Ko Muk (image Sivalai Beach Resort)Ko Muk is the most visited of the Trang islands. Perhaps this is its problem, because my 2nd (March 07) see showed the identify has gone downhill considerably since the belatedly 90s. At to the lowest degree the most pop Farang Beach expanse had. The less visited due east coast seemed every bit serene every bit normal too the lovely white-sand spit on the SE corner of the isle where the novel luxury SIVALAI BEACH RESORT has located, is indeed ..... lovely.
My latest June 2010 see saw lilliputian alter to Farang Beach which is at nowadays beingness referred to past times many every bit Charlie Beach on line organisation human relationship the original resort is Ko Muk Charlie - a few places had upgraded slightly. Ditto on the due east coast. The biggest alter was inwards the vicinity of the Sivalai spit - Sivalai was expanding too a twosome of novel places were locating on the nation side of the southern border of the spit. March 2013 saw a few changes - the dorsum of the beach at Ko Muk Charlie seemed neater, long fourth dimension favourite bar Mookie's was non operating, too quite a few places had expanded operations.
Area Map
Modified Google public Area Map
Muk too neighbours - epitome Google Earth. This epitome is tilted a lilliputian westward of N inwards the vertical plane.
Modified Google public Island Map
Once in i lawsuit to a greater extent than Google Earth's placemarker would non allow me to add together total item without disturbing other pointers too labels. The PIER is where the G of VILLAGE is. ANDA too COCO LODGE resorts are to a greater extent than or less the V of VILLAGE. The novel NATURE RESORT too PAWAPI are inwards the expanse of the SI inwards SIVALAI.
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FARANG BEACH
Google public Farang Beach (Charlie Beach) Map
I couldn't fit all places inwards hither - MAYOW'S KITCHEN amongst a few bungalows is contrary RUBBER TREE. TING TONG eating seat too bungalows is on the roadside inwards forepart of MOOKIES. If you lot are coming to SAWASDEE from the pier (down past times MOOKIES), best convey the rail straight thru CHARLIE to the beach too plough correct - the upper rail starting at MAYOW'S is less distinct.
Area Map
Modified Google public Area Map
Muk too neighbours - epitome Google Earth. This epitome is tilted a lilliputian westward of N inwards the vertical plane.Modified Google public Island Map
Once in i lawsuit to a greater extent than Google Earth's placemarker would non allow me to add together total item without disturbing other pointers too labels. The PIER is where the G of VILLAGE is. ANDA too COCO LODGE resorts are to a greater extent than or less the V of VILLAGE. The novel NATURE RESORT too PAWAPI are inwards the expanse of the SI inwards SIVALAI.----------------------------------------
FARANG BEACH
Google public Farang Beach (Charlie Beach) Map
I couldn't fit all places inwards hither - MAYOW'S KITCHEN amongst a few bungalows is contrary RUBBER TREE. TING TONG eating seat too bungalows is on the roadside inwards forepart of MOOKIES. If you lot are coming to SAWASDEE from the pier (down past times MOOKIES), best convey the rail straight thru CHARLIE to the beach too plough correct - the upper rail starting at MAYOW'S is less distinct.
Seasonal contrast - Farang (Charlie) Beach June 2010 - moisture flavor sees practiced body of body of water swell ( I caught some okay torso waves despite onshore conditions - a few tricky rips to a greater extent than or less so the inexperienced should live careful inwards conditions similar this), no boats, a total of v visitors inwards the whole greater Farang Beach area. Koyoo Restaurant closed - had to force thru protective hession "fence" to gain access to headland for this shot.I wrote this after the 2007 visit:
FARANG BEACH is yet a pretty prissy place, but non outstanding every bit it was when I start visited nearly 10 years ago. The sand is fairly white, but non blinding white every bit before. The H2O is deep for swimming at all tides, fairly clear but non the pristine of old, largely because inwards 2007 at that spot were e'er at to the lowest degree iii cruising yachts, a twosome of motor cruisers too a dozen+ longtails parked off the beach. It is rare for the quondam to receive got holding tanks for sewage too longtails tend leak fuel too lubricant. The whole expanse dorsum of beach is crammed amongst bungalows addition KO MUK CHARLIE'S pool. It is getting a fighting crowded dorsum there.
There is a bunch of critics blaming people who write too postal service photos nearly the diverse islands for the subsequent over-popularity of the places. I come across it every bit inevitable that every bit fourth dimension passes to a greater extent than people volition visit. Fares teach cheaper, to a greater extent than people travel. It is non every bit though Thai bungalow/hotel people, ferry operators, daytrip companies, booking sites etc don’t know how to force their materials inwards the media.
The thought that nosotros should jealously guard our favourite spots is extremely selfish too soooo similar those mega-immature wankers inwards that mass past times Alex Garland. My reports may inwards fact convince people that sure as shooting places are feeling the strain too should maybe live avoided if this worries you.
Of course, increased popularity does non hateful the identify necessarily goes downhill. Chalok Ban Kao on Ko Tao for instance is much to a greater extent than presentable these days than inwards the mid-90s.
Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 lot of it is upwardly to the Thais. For instance at that spot is so much Charlie could do to brand its identify to a greater extent than attractive. It desperately needs to a greater extent than paths too landscaping. The quondam chalk white sand betwixt the bungalows is becoming pretty muddy from dust carried/blown inwards from the cross-island track, which continues thru Charlie every bit a right-of-way. There is a prissy bunch of trees at the dorsum of the beach at the southern end, inwards forepart of Charlies’ expensive fan bungalows. Great for some shade too a swing inwards a hammock. Pity nearly the piles of edifice debris too equipment which has a weathered been at that spot since final moisture season’s refurbishing computer program await nearly them. Hell, that was exclusively six month’s ago!
UPDATE MARCH 2013 - PROGRESS
March 07 - I jumped off the longtail from Ko Kradan at Farang too went looking for a bungalow.
KO MUK CHARLIE was hopelessly overpriced - 1050 for a beachfront fan bungalow including breakfast too 950 for a 2nd rower. 2007! Must live some breakfast. Hey, you lot also teach complimentary usage of Charlies novel beachfront pool. Jeez, somehow that wasn’t a clincher for me.
Cool puddle - inwards high flavor 2007 at that spot was a brace of Scando bikini babes draped across the far rim amongst highball glasses, too the sunlounges were packed - hither inwards depression flavor June 2010 I was the exclusively user. Hell, the start dark at Charlie I was the exclusively invitee at the resort! Okay, I didn't heed the lack of a crowd at the puddle - ripped off 50 laps without some lilliputian youngster amongst a ball getting inwards the way. btw - at that spot is a kiddie's puddle out of shot far right.Interesting story from 2 local sources - Charlie got an offering from a Swedish vacation wholesaler that if he set inwards a puddle they could guarrantee a huge release of invitee nights. Charlie aint no mug.
Hession "fence" is mainly to hold moisture flavor winds from blowing leaves etc into puddle - is removed high season. Beach is maybe 30m away.
March07 - Charlie dominates the beach, but SAWASDEE has nearly 10 bungalows over inwards the northern corner. Some are beachfront too looked pretty nice. 700 baht too all taken.
Sawasdee inwards June 2010 - completely closed for moisture season, which disappointed me because I intended to remain inwards i of the 4 or v closest the body of body of water which receive got prissy views across the beach.Intriguingly these bungalows receive got been upgraded since my 07 see despite large developer The Central Group buying the articulation several years ago. Looks similar Central hasn't whatsoever curt term plans for a large Farang Beach Resort.
2007: So I moved inwards thru Charlie on the right-of-way too less than 100m along the cross-island rail I establish HAD FARANG BUNGALOWS on the left. This identify had a fair few traditional manner bungalows amongst attached bathroom, spread to a greater extent than or less an old kokosnoot plantation - most of them on a hillside which gave a pleasant outlook over the area. The bungalows were slightly dilapidated too a fighting squeezy for 2 people+gear, but relatively practiced value for 400baht.
Some of the huts at HAD FARANG BUNGALOWS inwards June 2010. This identify appeared to live opened upwardly inwards depression flavor but had no guests. I would receive got stayed in i lawsuit to a greater extent than except I similar to endeavour novel joints when I can.2007 HAD FARANG also had a non bad eating seat amongst genuinely tasty food, at absolutely sensational value.
Note that several local expats told me that Had Farang Bungalows has been purchased past times the large CENTRAL belongings group, so at that spot could live a flash resort at that spot presently UPDATE 2010 - NOPE, SEE BELOW RESTARAUNT PIC. However Central will desire beachfront too, pregnant either Charlie or Sawasdee should teach the large offering soon.
This is a June 2010 shot of Hat Farang Bungalow's NEW RESTAURANT - this classy looking articulation represents a sizable investment - the administration has non changed so The Central Group must receive got given them a pretty long-tem lease. UPDATE - yet going rigid inwards March 2013. Wally across at Ko Kradan told me iii months previously that all this Central Group matter is maybe a fighting exaggerated. Wally is a friend of Charlie who developed Ko Mook Charlie. btw Had Farang Bungalow seemed to live refurbishing bungalows to a greater extent than or less the fourth dimension of my visit. And I only noticed th identify is at nowadays listed on booking site AGODA - the aircon superior rooms do await several steps upwardly from the criterion garden bungalow I stayed inwards - the acquaint ones await a footstep upwardly too.
This identify has added bungalows over the years too was i of the start I tried on arrival inwards 2013 (I didn't remember beachfront Sawadee would receive got vacancies) but the identify was booked out. March aint precisely high flavor - Mayow (and Ko Mook) are pretty popular.
Across the other (southern) side of the cross-island rail from Mayow Kitchen is RUBBER TREE BUNGALOWS amongst practiced looking bungalows spaciously arranged on a hillside - looked pretty nice.
TRIP REPORT section.
UPDATE - this is some other I tried for a vacancy inwards March 2013. No luck too this identify has placidity a few bungalows. Had a practiced crowd inwards the eating seat for tiffin when I was checking - prices fantabulous too some other amongst a rep for practiced food.
RIP MOOKIE'S
Ting Tong was operating Mookie's tents too bungalows - both 300baht. The bungalows had to to live the dry out flavor teach by of the Andaman away from maybe lilliputian Ko Chang too some upstairs from stores places on Phuket too Lanta - too maybe Khao Lak. Admittedly the bungalows receive got to portion the tents' exterior bathrooms, but 300 - almost similar the practiced old days.
Mookie's inwards 2010. Was starting to await a fighting shabby past times March 2013.
Some of the old Mookie's tents. It was threatening pelting when I got off the ferry inwards June 2010 so I passed these past times - but iii divers who also landed grabbed some too said they were quite comfy. That dark inwards Mookies Bar at that spot were the iii divers, me, a Brazilian guy staying at Mayow, Mayaw's possessor (a sugariness local guy) too Mookie's host Brian. The other travellers left following twenty-four hours too that dark at that spot were only Brian too me. In high flavor the identify was packed. Earlier Updates: 2011 - Sessa who stayed at Mookies inwards February 2011 told me the identify was at nowadays beingness run past times friendly Brits Nasha too Alex*. Nasha's mobilphone: +66 080-561-1781 or Alex +66 082-498-3228. In high flavor it's frequently total booked. Sessa has a multi-destination trip study HERE which has information too pix on Kradan too Mookies.
2012 - Mookie's has got a website http://mookiesbar.blogspot.com/p/contact.html
- looks similar the novel owners receive got added some bungalows which is practiced news.
* the Thais at Ting Tong 2013 told me the Euro owners of Mookie's were Germans or Swedes. So maybe the identify changed hands in i lawsuit to a greater extent than after Sessa's visit.
I noticed quite a lot to a greater extent than people grabbing meals hither inwards 2013 than before visits.
STAYING AT KO MOOK CHARLIE BEACH RESORT
When I establish Sawadee closed for the moisture flavor inwards June 2010 I walked over to following Charlie Resort too got me a bungalow. The dude at reception wanted M which was outrageouos too so for a jumped-up backpacker bungalow inwards high season, allow lone low, notwithstanding the front-row seat too the pool. The prissy lady at KK Travel inwards Trang had told me travelers informed her they got i for 500 ("I won't endeavour to mass you lot from hither because they volition desire much more". Bless her.) - so I offered 500 too it was accepted immediately.
Hey start dark I was the exclusively invitee inwards the whole resort! Girl came over from the kitchen to a greater extent than or less 5pm when I was sinking elcheapo rum on the veranda call for if I wanted dinner - I didn't desire to hold them waiting so I said I'd teach upwardly to Mookies. On the 2nd twenty-four hours a Thai twosome moved into a front-rower a few downward from mine. Whoa - getting crowded!
Front rowers at Charlie. I'm sure as shooting these are the original backpackers' bungalows at that spot when I start visited inwards the 90s - tarted upwardly too amongst flashpacker soap, towels, shampoo, john newspaper etc, but yet the mattress-on-the-floor platform, musquito net, only plenty room for 2 people too gear, bigger-newer bathroom. Website says these are aircon - mine was fan only. No hot water. Not absolute seafront - 30m to beach amongst tree-filtered views of it from the prissy verandas. Outrageous call for cost inwards depression flavor - what do they desire for these inwards high season? Website non saying. There are bigger bungalows a fighting farther from beach - none of which struck me every bit beingness high inwards the wow factor. Charlie has a large eating seat which looks similar a pocket-size manufacturing industrial plant life cafeteria. Haven't a clue nearly prices. UPDATE 2013 - non bad at all. Maybe a fighting higher than average Andaman budget restaurants but the bunch of rattling practiced inexpensive restaurants inside a twosome of minutes walk seems to hold Charlie honest.Around 2010 go forums got messages that cops too National Park rangers had raided Charlie Resort looking for Charlie himself. Dude was holed upwardly at his Phuket condo, so they arrested the managing director instead too carted him off to jail. The inference was that the Central Property Group was flexing its political muscles inwards putting describe per unit of measurement area on Charlie to sell out (they already receive got purchased Sawadee too Had Farang Bungalows).
Not so according to a Muk non-resident practiced friend of Charlie I talked to. He reckons National Parks had a os to selection amongst Charlie. I'll exit you lot to speculate why they powerfulness live upset.
THE EAST COAST.
It exclusively takes nearly 10 minutes to walk from Farang Beach across the gentle loma to the other side of the island. But to teach to the hamlet primal too the pier you lot receive got to veer left nigh the coast too walk some other xv minutes or so.
As seen above, the hamlet comes inwards iii parts. The start department reached from Farang Beach is non far from the left plough mentioned upwardly page - is a newer department of housing set inwards over a cleared mangrove to the southward of the hamlet primal - this is post-tsunami resettlement fifty-fifty though Muk was non hitting difficult past times the tsunami. Some dude is offering HOME-STAYS there.
Holiday inwards the swamp. One fer you lot seekers of local culture. 
RESORTS NORTH OF THE PIER
There are a 2 pocket-size bungalow places inside v minutes walk of the pier only before you lot come upwardly to the fishermens' housing.
Sessa stayed at Coco inwards January 2011 - she has some pix on her trip report HERE.
Mook Anda Resort is a lilliputian farther north. 
If you lot force on north of the hamlet for some other v minutes you lot accomplish a department of coast where KO MUK RESORT too KO MOOK GARDEN RESORT are located. This expanse has existent prissy views towards the spectacular karst headlands of the mainland coast, but the beach gets rattling ordinary at depression tide amongst large expanses of dark sand too stone exposed.
This was no work when I stayed at Ko Muk Resort dorsum inwards '99 - they set on a complimentary boat to a greater extent than or less to Farang Beach each day. I saw no sign of the notice advising nearly this when I revisited for a beer inwards 2007. If not, you lot are looking at xl minutes walk across to Farang beach - xv minutes to the nicest department of the spit inwards forepart of the Sivalai (btw all beaches inwards Thailand are owned past times the King for the complimentary usage of his subjects too guests. Don't allow safety at flash resorts youngster you lot the beach is private. UPDATE MARCH 2013 - Muk Resort reception told me they didn't receive got a complimentary shuttle these days. Motorcycles are available for hire, no bicycles.
My old, fairly spacious bungalow amongst bath inwards the garden out dorsum looked unchanged, too was available for 300baht inwards 2007 before bargaining. The resort had set inwards a novel dining/drinks terrace to convey payoff of those views. Hey , pretty prissy place.
My old Ko Muk Resort bungalow was plenty changed inwards 2010. All bungalows had been extensively refurbished. There was no i to a greater extent than or less inwards June depression flavor to give me a cost update but Google should notice the website.
Adjacent Garden Resort looks similar to the non-upgraded Ko Muk Resort of 2007. When I walked past times then, at that spot was a large grouping of Thai tourists only arriving. It was a weekend. The identify appeared closed for depression flavor 2010.
THE EASTERN SAND SPIT AREA
Starting a few minutes south-east of the pier on the eastern-most tip of the isle is a gorgeous white sand spit. We used to walk across hither from Ko Muk Resort inwards 99 for a swim too some Sun too. It is at nowadays dominated past times the rattling upmarket SIVALAI RESRORT, which looks only every bit inviting. This is i identify I’m definitely gonna remain at when I unload that purse of dud sparklers on the Bangkok precious stone traders.
I shot this inwards June 2010 - moisture season. If you lot click-expand you lot may live able to come across tempest moving ridge erosion on this southern side. The northern side was okay. When I walked this department inwards March 2010 the beach had rebuilt itself nicely, which is common for fine weather. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 lot of the spit expanse is known for the depression tide blues - rattling shallow water. But this does non seem much of a work towards the goal on this northern side. No user-reviews on Agoda complained of it. NEW SINCE 2007 are 2 joints closer to the inland goal of the spit on the southern side, Koh Mook Nature Beach Resort too Pawapi.
The white buildings on the left are usage of Nature Resort - those on the right, Pawapi. In 2010 both were mainly flashpacker criterion although they had cheaper accommodation away from the beach, Pawapi the ameliorate value. Pawapi seemed the to a greater extent than traditionally Thai inwards design. Koh Mook Nature Beach Resort was usage of the same outfit which runs Ko Libong too Hat Yao Nature Resorts. Both places inwards shot were closed for depression flavor 2010 but the English linguistic communication guy running Pawapi was difficult at run getting things ready for high season. Sivalai's bungalows start maybe 50m out of motion-picture present to the right. The beach is fairly prissy inwards the expanse of the shot (REAL prissy across farther due east inwards forepart of Sivalai - which is opened upwardly to everyone).
THE SOUTH COAST.
It is possible when the tide is non also high to walk from Farang Beach correct to a greater extent than or less the southern too south-eastern usage of the island. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 large proportion is rock-platform but at that spot are a twosome of beaches which receive got exposed stone at lower tides. There are a few fisherman huts alond here. After nearly xl minutes you lot come upwardly out to the eastward extension of the cross island-track only past times the electriciy industrial plant life for the island. It is nearly 10 minutes walk dorsum over the mild loma to Farang Beach. Theoretically you lot could instead force on along the coast to the Sivalai spit, but at that spot are some mangrove sections inwards the means which looked a fighting tricky to me.
THE EMERALD CAVE.
The N too north-west of the isle receive got sheer cliffs dropping to the H2O making the coast impossible to walk. You demand a boat or kayak to accomplish the entrance to the fabulous Emerald Cave inwards this area. Longtails run to a greater extent than or less from Farang Beach too the resorts on the due east coast (I remember the cost was 300 inwards March 07) too from neighbouring islands every bit far every bit Ko Libong. The daytrip boats from Lanta brand this a must do. There is also a constant flow of ferries from Pak Bara packed amongst domestic visitors. So unless you lot teach far early on or belatedly inwards the twenty-four hours you lot volition notice the tiny bay at the entrance to the cave crowded amongst boats of all shapes too sizes. But fifty-fifty when crowded, it is fun. Perhaps to a greater extent than so - Thai vacation makers genuinely know how to taste themselves.
The setup hither is that you lot swim nearly 200m through a tunnel (pitch dark inwards mid-sections because at that spot are some kinks inwards the tunnel) too emerge into a beautiful lagoon laid inwards a towering cliff ringed amphitheater consummate amongst pocket-size beach too some rainforest. This is a quondam cave where the roof has collapsed. The H2O inwards hither is indeed emerald - something to do amongst the limestone. Or the light. Or something.
I receive got visited iii times - twice inwards 99 via long tail too in i lawsuit to a greater extent than a calendar week before my Muk remain inwards 2012, via i the Trang Island daytrip boats out of Ko Lanta which was taking me to nearby Ko Kradan.
On the start see inwards 99, 2 Canadians too I had no torch too had to swim the darkest department of the cave inwards pitch black. Interesting. By the way, the long tail too other boat people e'er receive got torches - our boat guy’s torch was broken. Hell, the longtail‘s engine broke on the means dorsum to the resort too nosotros had to canvass the matter using the canvas canopy rigged upwardly every bit a sail.
On the other 99 visit, on a weekend, at that spot were hundreds of Thai tourists. They fifty-fifty had a cooking-boat ready exterior the cave for quick eats. The Thais typically donned the xanthous lifejackets, tied themselves to a rope too moved into the cave conga-style. Lots of laughing too shrieking. One genuinely old lady, looked nearly 90, was floated inwards on a surfing-mattress, to the thanks of all when she arrived at the lagoon.
Great place, the Emerald Cave. Don’t miss it.
- too emerge hither (image THAILANDSOUTHERN.COM) NOTE LOW SEASON PROBLEMS - the iii divers from Pattaya who came over amongst me on the ferry inwards June 2010 wanted to do the cave, but because at that spot was a fairly large swell running locals advised that swimming upwardly the tunnel fifty-fifty at lower tide levels could live dangerous.
SNORKELLING
Muk is non known every bit a snorkelling island. Nevertheless keen people may notice plenty to brand them happy. Check out wonderingstar's fantabulous snorkelling page on Muk which contains useful maps, information too dozens of underwater too other pix at KO NGAI
KO KRADAN
KO LANTA
KO LIBONG AND HAT YAO
KO LAOLIANG
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