VISITED JUNE 2017
Near cliff bottom, MATA AIR GUYANGAN
It's taken me over 20 BALI visits since 1975 to depository fiscal establishment check PENIDA out. Should receive got gone before - it is terrific with some outstanding coastal together with other scenery, top diving together with snorkeling together with despite existence agency to a greater extent than set dorsum together with sparsely settled than mainland BALI together with closed neighbours NUSAS CENINGAN together with LEMBONGAN, at that topographic point is a goodness arrive at of places to rest together with full general tourist facilities. Check the pop booking sites similar AGODA, TIPADVISOR reports together with full general tourist information via GOOGLE - you volition hold upwards surprised.
PENIDA is a high limestone-plateau based isle a brusk distance to the southward due east of NUSAS CENINGAN together with LEMBONGAN. Compared to them it is much bigger at 200sqkm abut agency smaller than MAINLAND BALI - the closest dot of which is close the due east coast town of PADANGBAI nigh 15km to the northward east.
The limestone plateau takes upwards most of the isle together with rises to a maximum pinnacle of 521m (1700ft) at PUNCAK MUNDI mid isle below. There is a route to the summit surface area but I didn't larn a gamble to bring it. (Be warned - a lot of PENIDA'S dorsum roads are atrociously surfaced narrow lanes. However the 70% of the chief roads shown on the map I took are pretty nicely surfaced together with wider - yet 4 wheeled vehicles soundless demand to bring tending when passing). Away from the limestone plateau y'all receive got a narrow but rattling tropical coastal strip inwards the northward together with northward due east - the climb from hither upwards onto the plateau is pretty steep but cipher similar the awesome cliffs which go all the agency from ATUH BEACH inwards the due east clockwise to close TOYAPAKEH inwards the north-west. These cliffs receive got been severely attacked past times the sea resulting inwards some rattling overnice inlets, beaches together with other features.
Limestone doesn't concord H2O addition this is a lower rainfall surface area than most of the BALI MAINLAND - I ever pictured the plateau surface area equally having a lean comprehend of stunted bush but inwards fact it has quite goodness wood - fifty-fifty some palm trees inwards lower areas. However it is non a goodness farming surface area - I saw some cash-cropping on the coast together with inwards lower NW plateau areas but the residual mainly features occasional commercial grazing together with rattling scattered semi-subsistence cropping/grazing.
The chief town is SAMPALAN on the northward coast although it looks to receive got only a few K residents. The town has a modest harbour where fast boats leave of absence for SANUR together with PADANGBAI on MAINLAND BALI together with the irksome populace people/vehicle ferry for PADANGBAI.
TOYAPAKEH to SAMPALAN'S westward is the next biggest identify together with is the dot of entry from nearby CENINGAN together with LEMBONGAN.
My digs were at MANTA COTTAGES together with I elevate all the other locations shown apart from PUCAK MUNDI downward page.
ACCESS
I came across from NUSA CENINGAN on a fast speedboat charter.
Putu, the efficient caput guy at my CENINGAN digs SECRET POINT HUTS, said the populace boat was a fleck iffy, oft non running if customers were scarce - but he could organize a fast boat charter for idr150k (about $15aud/$11US) including carry to the boat from SPH. Seeing contemporary go guides were quoting 300k I thought this a goodness deal. My charter took off from the LEMBONGAN (right-hand) side of the 2-island-linking YELLOW BRIDGE inwards background nigh 0930. We apace passed the packed motorised barge inwards shot - perhaps this is the populace boat: but I can't hollo back seeing whatever luggage together with then perhaps it is a day-trip charter on its agency to PENIDA'S CRYSTAL BAY, a pop beach/snorkeling/diving outing from LEMBONGAN/CENINGAN.
The trip is short, only 4.5km together with nigh 10minutes. I forgot a linear scale - it's 4100m inwards a staight describe betwixt the LEMBONGAN together with TOYAPAKEH identify markers.
A brusk distance off TOYAPAKEH nosotros passed QUICKSILVER'S giant offshore pontoon. The fast catamaran had already arrived from BENOA close KUTA, MAINLAND BALI. I think daytrippers tin exercise H2O sports off the pontoon and/or bring excursions onto PENIDA. This would hold upwards the agency most people larn to encounter the island. Looked sugariness to me for cashed up/time pitiful travelers.
Note AGUNG volcano on MAINLAND BALI behind pontoon - that island's highest mountain.
The boat was met at the beach past times the usual carry guys who offered me a rental motorbike for 50k a day. I was to a greater extent than interested inwards a ride on the dorsum of a moto to my digs - this guy quoted 75k for the 15km trip. I would unremarkably bargain, but this was a goodness cope relative to the venal carry guys on LEMBONGAN (CENINGAN is a different deal), together with then accepted. He seemed a fleck surprised. OK - WIN/WIN - he's happy/I'm happy.
Trip took 25 minutes along the goodness but narrow chief northward coast road. Traffic non bad except for a few concord ups inwards villages together with thru SAMPALAN. Scenery rattling greenish together with tropical. Lotsa sand along hither but beaches didn't expression fantastic: pretty narrow - long together with straight - featureless except inwards areas where angling praus were lined upwards prior to taking off for the aftenoon/might session. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 large proportion of the surface area betwixt the beach together with fringing reef is given over to sea-weed cultivation. I think that is PENIDA'S chief economical activity.
BTW for y'all guys unhappy nigh moto transfers - I did abide by travelers together with their luggage moving nigh this route inwards compact vans. This would in all likelihood piece of work out cheaper if the cost is shared betwixt a let out of people.
MANTA COTTAGES WITH SEA VIEW
From the surprising let out of places offered on booking.com I selected MANTA on concern human relationship of shots showing sea views from the rooms, eating topographic point together with rim puddle addition quite a decent toll - despite quite a few negative reviews. Most complained of pitiful English linguistic communication skills together with scratchy service - I'm thinking: what tin hold upwards expected inwards a novel resort on an isle where regular tourism has only lately taken root? As it turned out, English linguistic communication WAS a fleck lacking although caput guy PUTU (another) was goodness when he was around - together with service-wise, these people were trying difficult to the dot where I had trivial to complain about.
MANTA is located on the side of a colina higher upwards the coastal route nigh 5km south-east of SAMPALAN
Only 8 rooms inwards a linear block higher upwards the chief coastal road. Despite road, traffic dissonance no work - I was awake betwixt 0100 together with 0200 i fourth dimension together with I swear no vehicle passed by. Rooms relatively novel flashpacker (upper budget) touchstone with apartment concealment TV, placidity aircon. Plenty of storage, goodness lights. Spacious, clean. Comfy bed. No fridge, no bottled water. Bathroom spacious, shower brackish (most H2O on PENIDA is bore-water with the H2O tabular array inwards coastal areas is non far higher upwards sea level) but agency less salty than sea H2O - felt refreshed after a shower. Poor flow inwards launder basin but flexible shower caput reached. Front door lock broke but I jury rigged i from my wheel cable-lock.
Outlook thru front end door. Out on the balcony the westward coast of LOMBOK could hold upwards seen slightly to the right together with the southern AMED coast of mainland BALI (30km) difficult left. RINJANI, Lombok's volcano was visible some mornings (90km) but nosotros were besides far around the flexure inwards the coast to encounter AGUNG inwards mainland BALI.
Sun rising behind cloud-misted RINJANI from balcony. The cone peaks at that patch of cloud mid-pic.
A 2 storey block was nether structure behind the restaurant. Looks to receive got 8 rooms same traditional trend equally existing place. Upstairs should receive got killer views. PUTU apologised for whatever dissonance but I didn't think it excessive.
Women exercise a lot of the difficult labouring at Indo constructions - hither carrying dark sand upwards from route level.
Restaurant had the same dandy views. Service pretty goodness but hold upwards aware early on forenoon suns shines/afternoon sea breeze blows straight into kitchen door together with then it's closed much of the time. No worries - the drill is just to bang on the door for service. Junior waitress Lucey sweet, seemed to receive got a fair grasp on English linguistic communication but sometimes caught wanting inwards this - receive got patience, these people are relatively novel at the job. Free wifi seemed to piece of work best hither together with around the pool.
There was a modest store right of photographic goggle box camera selling touirst essentials together with snacks.
Menu prices lowest of nine accommodation places all trip - equally depression equally famed elcheapo specialist eating topographic point BAMBOO CORNER inwards KUTA'S POPPIES LANE 1- despite online guides maxim PENIDA food/drink prices are higher than on mainland BALI because together with then much materials is shipped in. Large beer 35k (normal budget identify 40/45K), tea/coffee 5k (30k) .Food prices likewise inexpensive - seemed to hold upwards cooked upwards pretty good to me but I'm no gourmet. Menu perhaps a fleck limited - few western dishes together with no wine. But enough of overnice warungs along the coast route for some variety. Inclusive breakfast rattling unproblematic - large eaters tin lodge cheaply from the carte du jour - a fruit plate cost me only 15k.
Shot from restaurant. Harvesting of sea-weed is done when tide is upwards - adult woman is towing inner underground on which harvested weed is stacked.
More harvesting from my room's balcony. Might hold upwards clearer if y'all click-expand.
Nicely located pool. Design a fleck weird - greenish color makes it expression dirty - it wasn't. It's nigh 12mX5. There is a 12X2 shallow kids' department at right - the remaining 12X3 is a uniform 1.8m (6ft) deep together with then only a tall soul tin stand upwards - makes peering over the rim on elbows a fleck uncomfortable after a while. Sufficient Sun lounges - some had umbrellas but no soft mattresses - yet they were non peculiarly uncomfortable. Water is that salty materials (not sea water) that is together with then pop - a fleck difficult on the eyes.
Local kids had a ball inwards a special 1 hr session around 1600 Saturdays. You receive got no thought how rudimentary housing weather are inwards nearby areas - a gamble to puddle it off must blow them away.
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AROUND MANTA COTTAGES
I spent the root together with terminal of my 4 days exploring the coastline both sides of MANTA on foot.
FIRST DAY WANDER
My root excursion was southward downward the coast route to the communications tower - just umder 3km together with 45 minutes each way.
Arrow shows extent of walk - around root headland to next tower.
This department of the coast reminded me of the AMED part of north-east mainland BALI. The coast route went upwards over headlands together with dived downward along bays....
Narrow route shows tropical nature of the northward together with north-east coast.
Local ladies transporting fruit - judging past times ornate organization this is meant for some type of ceremony.
Roadside has frequent domicile inwards modest linear villages - in all likelihood houses of seaweed farmers together with fishermen. Lotsa modest stores, bales (sitting platforms) where people---um---sat around together with talked together with perhaps played cards, a few touristy warungs together with unproblematic places to stay. No flash resorts. GOA GURI PUTRI on the Google ground epitome higher upwards is patch a good known religious surface area - THE TEMPLE OF THE CAVE. Putu from MANTA COTTAGES suggested I depository fiscal establishment check it out but non existence large on civilization or temples, I gave it a fille - subsequent reading tells me perhaps that was a mistake. There is a 2nd temple, SEGARA YEH ULAKAN, on the headland just brusk of the tower.
Bale card game inwards progress.
Sea-weed drying inwards the sun. This along with angling seems the chief activity on this department of coast.
With the whole isle made of limestone, roadside quarries are common. This guy was splitting off sections afterwards shaped into large edifice blocks.
UPHILL LANE FROM MANTA COTTAGES - lotsa traffic (for the area) was coming out of a narrow steep lane to MANTA'S immediate northern side - together with then I decided to bring a wander upwards there. Seemed tp hold upwards a whole mount community inwards linear settlements along the lane - settlements besides modest to hold upwards villages or hamlets - inwards RURAL SETTLEMENT 101 dorsum inwards 1964 I think nosotros called them "roadsides". The lane continued steeply for what seemed 2km - lotsa kids together with families exterior houses, rattling friendly. Not certain what supports them - didn't seem to receive got much growing upwards at that topographic point - perhaps they are connected to the sea-weed together with fishing. Got quite high together with some panoramic views opened upwards but my camera's battery was flat.
ON THE LAST DAY I decided to walk the department of coast inwards the other (northwards - to a greater extent than correctly north-east) management from MANTA
LAST DAY WANDER
Places visited terminal day. SAMPALAN is a trivial over 5km from MANTA. The coastal route is a delight, twisting/dropping/climbing into modest bays together with gullys - several linear roadsides with lush verdant vegetation between.
BOGA SEGARA WARUNG
This identify is a pleasant 2km walk from MANTA together with has dining bales arranged around a flexure inwards the route on a depression headland. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 to a greater extent than conventional seating/cooking edifice is across the road, Bales hav goodness sea-weed farming views all circular - the closest had similar LOMBOK views to MANTA'S restaurant, so....
....I picked a bale on the northern terminate with goodness views of AGUNG volcano on mainland Bali
Food prices i time once again lower than average budget joints dorsum inwards mainland BALI. Fried chicken for idr25k $US1.90 a pretty goodness deal. Click expand for amend clarity. Drink prices similarly sugariness - some other PENIDA identify with 35k large beers.
Fried chicken together with large beer went downward pretty good - followed past times a 15k fruit plate.
By the terminate of tiffin fourth dimension all bales were taken. There was no accommodation nearby - all these people were passers-by on motorcyle tours of the island.
MOLA MOLA WARUNG
Less than a km northward I flora some other roadside/seaside warung - MOLA MOLA which was much to a greater extent than spacious together with modern - had a goodness audio system, efficient staff together with prices higher upwards BOGA SEGARA'S but soundless close budget level. Few customers on a overnice twenty-four hours but I got the impression this identify would hold upwards a goodness party, wedding-reception or other component venue for non besides distant SAMPALAN.
Outlook from MOLA MOLA. Check modest fry with kite.
SAMPALAN
PENIDA'S biggest town (it aint no city) starts only a few hundred meters past times MOLA MOLA. It is largely a linear town (although at that topographic point are a few dorsum streets) stretching a fleck to a greater extent than than 3km along the coastal road. Town centre is toward the far terminate from MANTRA/MOLA MOLA, nigh 6km from the former.
Town key SAMPALAN - non quite PARK AVENUE. Had a reasonable arrive at of businesses over nigh 200m - opposing traffic could larn a fleck jammed upwards when trying to overstep 2 bigger vehicles parked across from each other. At to the lowest degree iii ATMS nearby. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 left plough a trivial farther from the photographic goggle box camera takes y'all to the boat divergence surface area seen below.
The irksome vehicle/passenger ferry leaves for PADANGBAI on the key mainland BALI coast daily. Fast boats leave of absence for PADANGBAI together with SANUR inwards southward mainland BALI several times per day. Slow together with fast boats also leave of absence for KUSAMBA southward of PADANGBAI. Details online. The create marketplace position must kicking off pretty early on - trivial going on when I went past times several times after noon.
Most fuel on PENIDA is sold out of 1litre/2litre bottles at roadside stalls but SAMPALAN has a genuine gas station. Fuel hither a considerably less expensive.
Fighting cocks awaiting that night's action. Maybe the passing traffic makes them cranky.
Toward the larn out of town I came across this classic WW2 motorcycle-sidecar machine gun carrier. Must soundless go - rental guy wanted to know if I wanted to hire it. Don't think those guns are soundless functional - they'd hold upwards just the ticket for clearing the queue at the local MACCA'S (although at that topographic point is no MACCAS inwards SAMPALAN - but whatever warung tin exercise y'all a fried chicken dish agency to a greater extent than yummy)
On the outskirts of town my right human knee was pain similar hell (an old jogging injury) together with then I stuck out the pollex with a 20k Federal Reserve notation showing - this modest fry picked me upwards together with took me the 4km dorsum to MANTA inwards no fourth dimension at all.
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PLACES AWAY FROM THE MANTA COTTAGES AREA
On days 2 together with iii I grabbed a rental moto from MANTA together with their rudimentary map of the island's attractions together with took off to explore farther afield.
MANTA'S rental motos were pretty vanquish upwards - typical of PENIDA where atrociously surfaced dorsum roads are the norm. Mine rode good but was scratched up, had a missing mirror together with no let out plates (didn't encounter a cop inwards 10 hours of riding over 2 days: non that my licence is endorsed for motorcylcles equally BALI requires - I ever comport a 5Ok Federal Reserve notation wrapped around my Aussie auto licence for if I'm stopped - has never happened but I've seen enough of western moto-renters stopped when cycling on mainland BALI.
MANTA'S 60K a twenty-four hours rental fee addition fuel was a pretty fair deal.
I headed south-west from MANTA. After a few km the coastal route turned right together with began to climb the plateau - some goodness slopes together with wicked hairpins.
Viewed from southward mainland Bali, PENIDA'S plateau seems a smooth-topped mound but inwards fact moisture flavor runoff has managed to carve some decent gullies together with modest valleys into the soft limestone. I afterwards noticed the gorge behind ATUAH BEACH was a form of heavily vegetated GRAND CANYON.
However rapid infiltration sees a lack of running H2O inwards these gullies inwards dry out season. Rapid infiltration or not, the plateau top supports a goodness comprehend of wood together with shrubs. But soils must hold upwards lean - non much commercial cropping is seen upwards hither - perhaps some scattered commercial grazing. Most farming seems to hold upwards dispersed subsistence cropping/grazing.
Gets a fleck cool inwards the highest areas.
There are scattered villages on the plateau - many seem to receive got a specialist activity similar textiles, stone carving rather than acting equally service centres - non besides many surrounding rural dwellers to serve. Many comprise houses of the subsistence farmers mentioned above. Temples are wide-spread - PENIDA has a special religious significance to full general BALI residents.
MATA AIR GUYANGAN
I wanted to depository fiscal establishment check out the awesome cliffs on PENIDA'S westward together with southward coast, but with no navigation device together with a VERY basic map I had no thought where I was. There are dozens of side roads together with sign-posting is largely absent including the names of many villages. Very trivial English linguistic communication is spoken but I got the full general thought I was heading for the far southern dot or perhaps a fleck northward from TANGLAD on a cutting up, super narrow dorsum road.
So narrow that a vehicle behind could non overtake - I pulled to the side together with allow it past times - it was a compact SUV with western passengers. I figured it must hold upwards a tour guide taking a political party somewhere interesting together with then I tucked inwards behind. After a few km nosotros parked amongst a temple at the top of some awesome cliffs - nosotros had reached AIR GUYANGAN which equally y'all tin encounter is non precisely at the far southern poiny. Nevertheless it was just the sort of identify I was seeking.
MANTA COTTAGES to AIR GUYANGAN via TANGLAD,/SHORTCUT/BATUKANDIK is 25km, The roads equally far equally BATUKANDIK were goodness but the terminal (blue) 6km leg was super crude oil inwards parts, had several confusing branches together with was rattling narrow - at i dot the modest SUV I was next took the mirror off a badly parked moto exterior a hamlet family when trying to squeeze by.
This is the sight that greeted me at the border of the cliff. I dunno how to limited this - ever since 1975 when I root saw PENIDA'S CLIFFS from SANUR I've wanted to depository fiscal establishment check them out upwards close. Thing is, these southern coast cliffs are agency higher than the western coast facing SANUR.
As my american backpacker friend Madison would say: "ARSUM!!"
The stairway. We are talking over 700 steps. Many parts receive got a 45degree or steeper slope. I run together with walk steps together with steep hills inwards my hometown most days - was chuffed when I walked out non halt despite a weighty motorbike helmet clipped to my backpack.
Thick bluish piping is H2O provide for distant TANGLAD pumped upwards from puddle below. Thicker dark hoses are also H2O provide for smaller villages closed by. Thinner dark cables are electricity provide for the pumping station downward at the pool.
Outlook nigh one-half agency down.
SUV passengers taste tiffin at the human foot of the stairway. Pumping station background. Pool is out of shot to right, amend seen below....
Pool (arrow) is fed past times H2O which has filtered through many hundreds of meters of limestone from the plateau surface - is super clear. Online tour sites exhibit shots of people swimming but of belatedly this is banned - it is after all the H2O provide of a let out of villages.
Excess H2O flows to cliff border together with falls 25m to the sea. In high flow times this becomes a modest waterfall - online sites receive got some goodness pix of GUYANGAN WATERFALL.
Site at top left of pic is a modest religious temple. There is a bigger temple at the top of the stairs. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 dude collects a nominal parking fee for the temple together with stairs. An next warung provides welcome refreshments for stair climbers.
SECOND DAY MOTERBIKING
I root headed south-west to depository fiscal establishment check out ATUH BEACH which a High German daughter at MANTA told me was just gorgeous - she was non wrong.
ATUH BEACH - MY NEW BEST BEACH IN BALI
Because I'm a beaches nerd, this was the highlight of places I managed to visit.
ATUH BCH is nigh equally far due east on Penida equally y'all tin larn - it's 20km past times route from SAMPALAN together with 12km from Mantra Cottages.
There are 2 chief access roads into ATUH. The northern (white) route is a mere 1km shorter from SAMPALAN. It leaves the rattling good surfaced if a fleck narrow chief route root (well sign-posted) together with follows a serial of narrower but soundless good surfaced province lanes thru a twosome of villages (any turns are good sign-posted - I didn't receive got a mapping device to follow but patch they exercise a goodness project if y'all punch inwards "ATUH BEACH) which only deteriorates inwards the terminal 300m to the parking surface area high on the northern headland.
Part of northern parking surface area - had nigh 8 vans together with 20 motos inwards total. No parking fee but it wouldn't surprise me if at that topographic point unremarkably is - most PENIDA attractions had a nominal nether US50cents fee.
It is possible to bring bikes a fleck farther downward the rails but it is super crude oil - only for experts.
Overview from close the northern parking area. Check the steep concrete steps upwards the reverse headland - they Pb to the southern parking surface area just out of shot top right.
The access rails from the northern parking surface area is nigh 500m long. The 2nd one-half is narrrow, super steep together with super crude oil - much rougher than the southern stairway inwards the higher upwards shot.
Beach from one-half agency down
Mid-bay dorsum floater
The side route to the SOUTHERN PARKING AREA is also good signposted on the chief route a trivial farther south. But I didn't bring this together with can't comment on subsequent signage or route surface. The fact that GOOGLE MAPS gives this slightly longer route from SAMPALAN a slightly shorter full go fourth dimension suggests the surface can't hold upwards besides bad. Punch ATUH BEACH PARKING into your navigation device to larn route directions.
The access rails from the southern parking surface area is nicely paved together with non steep for this root section. Dudes front end right are collecting access money. Apparently villages both sides of the beach claim ownership. Southern hamlet has spent large fourth dimension on access - deserves whatever entrance fee.
Below this dot the rails steepens to a high warung seen past times click-expanding the shot iii higher upwards this - after which it drops VERY steeply downward a set of concrete stairs to the beach.
Details of northward together with southward approaches. I forgot a linear scale - it is 500m inwards a straight describe betwixt the placemarkers for STH PARKING together with NORTH PARKING.
People start the descent of the southern stairway
Stairs are good formed but the chief work for people with worn out knees similar me is that the risers are oft TWICE the pinnacle of conventional stairs. And did I elevate the steepness?
For such an isolated spot at that topographic point was a surprising let out of visitors on the beach. Unusually lots were immature Americans inwards that gap yr (post college) historic catamenia group. U.S. citizens are non all that mutual inwards Bali (come a pitiful fifth after Aussies, Chinese, Euros, Japanese) together with they don't tend to exhibit upwards inwards out of the agency places disproportionately - Euros win here, peculiarly the French. Maybe some U.S. TV outfit has just done a special on PENIDA.
Locals receive got fix several warungs with nutrient together with drink. Sun-lounges/umbrellas together with edible bean bags tin hold upwards rented.
Note NUSA BATUPADASAN offshore inwards key pic. Sand was a pretty create clean white/yellow but pic straightaway higher upwards indicates it gets a fleck messy towards the dorsum of the beach.
I visited mid tide - high H2O marks indicated non a lot of sand at top of the tide.
SNORKELING? I didn't abide by whatever snorkelers or warungs hiring out gear. However my sense of tropical places similar this is that at that topographic point are ever interesting fringing coral together with enough of fish along the rocks of headlands together with islands. Once i time again I was besides lazy to depository fiscal establishment check it out,
When swimming I noticed a gentle sideways electrical flow equally shown. No doubtfulness this feeds into a rip electrical flow along the long northern headland but I couldn't hold upwards bothered to confirm this. The side drag was slowly to swim side-ways out of. Judging past times the size of the swell, together with then would the rip electrical flow (note: SWIM TO THE SIDE - NOT AGAINST). I elevate this on a demand to know footing - maintain an optic on your kids although most kids together with other swimmers volition rest closed to the sand were at that topographic point seemed to hold upwards no currents. In relative terms these were benign currents because moving ridge size inwards the bay is kept downward past times the protection of NUSA BATAPADASAN. Super pop beaches similar BONDI together with MANLY inwards Commonwealth of Australia oft receive got big, nasty rips - surfers usage them to larn 'out the back' to the moving ridge take-off zone.
Check the swell coming thru the narrow gap betwixt NUSA BATUPADASAN together with the southern headland - this is because the prevailing dry out flavor swell aligns with this opening. However at that topographic point was the occasional moving ridge working thru the large long gap betwixt NP together with the northern headland. None of the waves were goodness for body-surfing the twenty-four hours I visited fifty-fifty though swell inwards the opened upwards bounding main was pretty impressive that day.
JOGGLO BUNGALOW on the tip of the southern headland. This identify is available for vacation rental - depository fiscal establishment check AGODA together with TRIPADVISOR. The toll seems a trivial steep.
JOGGLO top left - stair top warung bluish roof right. Parking surface area out of frame right.
Coastline straightaway southward of JOGGLO. Beach is the inaccessible VOLCOM. Those awesome cliffs run some 30km along the east, southward together with westward coasts of PENIDA.
The chief route dorsum to the coast has some goodness views - depository fiscal establishment check MAINLAND BALI'S volcanic peak AGUNG inwards background. MANTA COTTAGES is somewhere this side of that 2nd headland - I think its location may just hold upwards hidden behind the foothills of the root headland.
AFTERNOON DESTINATION - CRYSTAL BAY
After lunching at MANTA I took off for CRYSTAL BAY on the other (western) side of PENIDA. Online together with printed go guides tell this is a MUST SEE - perhaps it was a few years dorsum but I was underwhelmed (although to hold upwards fair I didn't dive or snorkel which are said to hold upwards pretty good. Here's the affair - I don't dive unless it's free. I exercise snorkel most days for lobsters together with abalone inwards a gorgeous bay behind my house, receive got seen world's best coral/fishies on Australia's GREAT BARRIER REEF lotsa times, receive got seen i of PENIDA'S best on a dedicated snorkeling trip out of NUSA LEMBONGAN 20 years agone - it was okay but far from world's best - together with then I'm kinda jaded snorkel-wise together with unless somewhere promises to hold upwards especial I give it a miss. Forget question obligations to readers - at 71 if I don't wanna exercise something I don't. And I bet at that topographic point are some goodness specialist snorkeling reports for this identify online).
CRYSTAL BAY is on the far westward coast facing the narrow channel betwixt PENIDA together with CENINGAN. It's 22km from MANTA, 17 fr SAMPALAN together with 8 fr TOYAPAKEH. You volition hold upwards on goodness but narrow chief roads all the agency to the well-signposted turnoff nigh 3km upwards the plateau from southward TOYAPAKEH. The side route is also good sign-posted for the bay together with is a pretty straight shot to the ocean. Surface is quite goodness until the terminal km or together with then where at that topographic point are also some rattling steep pinches (no problems for a moto). NEED TO KNOW - when leaving the beach surface area plough difficult left onto this route otherwise y'all volition dead-end inwards a modest village.
btw - the turn-off to GAMAT BAY which I also meant to depository fiscal establishment check out, is off this side road, but I missed it both coming together with going.
I forgot to add together a linear scale - it's 13km inwards a direct describe betwixt the identify markers for THE BAY together with MANTA
Typical of terminal km into CRYSTAL BAY
Beach showed bear witness of overuse - sand was non precisely pristine together with the dreaded sun-lounge/beach bag/umbrella scourge had started to spread. The high tide score showed non besides much sand left at the top of the tide. This shot doesn't signal it but at that topographic point were lots of visiting boats - CRYSTAL BAY is a pop daytrip out of LEMBONGAN together with CENINGAN. I bet QUICKSILVER gives guests the choice of a see from the large day-trip pontoon shown upwards page.
The narrow passage across to LEMBONGAN does larn rigid TIDAL CURRENTS. These could good roll into the outer bay together with then bring tending when deep H2O swimming together with snorkeling.
GETTING AWAY FROM PENIDA
I decided to bring the irksome populace vehicle/passenger from SAMPALAN to PADANGBAI on the mainland. The latter is much farther from my KUTA destination than the option fast boats to SANUR, but is a modest ship allowing me to walk around - agency amend than existence crammed into a cramped bumpy speedboat . And agency cheaper besides - would y'all believe less than $US3?
Ain't she a beauty?
They certain pack them inwards - 1
They certain pack them inwards - 2
Goodby PENIDA
Hello mainland BALI.
This is WHITE SAND BEACH just southward of PADANBAI's harbour. I had 2 hours to recheck the surface area before my PERAMA shuttle left for KUTA - I was walking this beach minding my concern when 2 dogs attacked me. One fleck me twice. At this fourth dimension 2 weeks after, I soundless haven't finished the RABIES together with TETANUS serial of shots. MEMO TO SELF - start carrying SNAKE BASHING STICK similar inwards the Australian bush when inwards BALI
ATTENTION - if y'all receive got extra information or encounter mistakes delight postal service below. But if y'all receive got QUESTIONS, delight inquire inwards THE FORUM which I depository fiscal establishment check oft when non traveling - whereas I depository fiscal establishment check private location pages similar this i only occasionally.
Sumber http://tezza-thailandbeachesandislands.blogspot.com/
It's taken me over 20 BALI visits since 1975 to depository fiscal establishment check PENIDA out. Should receive got gone before - it is terrific with some outstanding coastal together with other scenery, top diving together with snorkeling together with despite existence agency to a greater extent than set dorsum together with sparsely settled than mainland BALI together with closed neighbours NUSAS CENINGAN together with LEMBONGAN, at that topographic point is a goodness arrive at of places to rest together with full general tourist facilities. Check the pop booking sites similar AGODA, TIPADVISOR reports together with full general tourist information via GOOGLE - you volition hold upwards surprised.
PENIDA is a high limestone-plateau based isle a brusk distance to the southward due east of NUSAS CENINGAN together with LEMBONGAN. Compared to them it is much bigger at 200sqkm abut agency smaller than MAINLAND BALI - the closest dot of which is close the due east coast town of PADANGBAI nigh 15km to the northward east.
The limestone plateau takes upwards most of the isle together with rises to a maximum pinnacle of 521m (1700ft) at PUNCAK MUNDI mid isle below. There is a route to the summit surface area but I didn't larn a gamble to bring it. (Be warned - a lot of PENIDA'S dorsum roads are atrociously surfaced narrow lanes. However the 70% of the chief roads shown on the map I took are pretty nicely surfaced together with wider - yet 4 wheeled vehicles soundless demand to bring tending when passing). Away from the limestone plateau y'all receive got a narrow but rattling tropical coastal strip inwards the northward together with northward due east - the climb from hither upwards onto the plateau is pretty steep but cipher similar the awesome cliffs which go all the agency from ATUH BEACH inwards the due east clockwise to close TOYAPAKEH inwards the north-west. These cliffs receive got been severely attacked past times the sea resulting inwards some rattling overnice inlets, beaches together with other features.
Limestone doesn't concord H2O addition this is a lower rainfall surface area than most of the BALI MAINLAND - I ever pictured the plateau surface area equally having a lean comprehend of stunted bush but inwards fact it has quite goodness wood - fifty-fifty some palm trees inwards lower areas. However it is non a goodness farming surface area - I saw some cash-cropping on the coast together with inwards lower NW plateau areas but the residual mainly features occasional commercial grazing together with rattling scattered semi-subsistence cropping/grazing.
TOYAPAKEH to SAMPALAN'S westward is the next biggest identify together with is the dot of entry from nearby CENINGAN together with LEMBONGAN.
My digs were at MANTA COTTAGES together with I elevate all the other locations shown apart from PUCAK MUNDI downward page.
ACCESS
I came across from NUSA CENINGAN on a fast speedboat charter.
Note AGUNG volcano on MAINLAND BALI behind pontoon - that island's highest mountain.
Trip took 25 minutes along the goodness but narrow chief northward coast road. Traffic non bad except for a few concord ups inwards villages together with thru SAMPALAN. Scenery rattling greenish together with tropical. Lotsa sand along hither but beaches didn't expression fantastic: pretty narrow - long together with straight - featureless except inwards areas where angling praus were lined upwards prior to taking off for the aftenoon/might session. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 large proportion of the surface area betwixt the beach together with fringing reef is given over to sea-weed cultivation. I think that is PENIDA'S chief economical activity.
BTW for y'all guys unhappy nigh moto transfers - I did abide by travelers together with their luggage moving nigh this route inwards compact vans. This would in all likelihood piece of work out cheaper if the cost is shared betwixt a let out of people.
MANTA COTTAGES WITH SEA VIEW
From the surprising let out of places offered on booking.com I selected MANTA on concern human relationship of shots showing sea views from the rooms, eating topographic point together with rim puddle addition quite a decent toll - despite quite a few negative reviews. Most complained of pitiful English linguistic communication skills together with scratchy service - I'm thinking: what tin hold upwards expected inwards a novel resort on an isle where regular tourism has only lately taken root? As it turned out, English linguistic communication WAS a fleck lacking although caput guy PUTU (another) was goodness when he was around - together with service-wise, these people were trying difficult to the dot where I had trivial to complain about.
Restaurant had the same dandy views. Service pretty goodness but hold upwards aware early on forenoon suns shines/afternoon sea breeze blows straight into kitchen door together with then it's closed much of the time. No worries - the drill is just to bang on the door for service. Junior waitress Lucey sweet, seemed to receive got a fair grasp on English linguistic communication but sometimes caught wanting inwards this - receive got patience, these people are relatively novel at the job. Free wifi seemed to piece of work best hither together with around the pool.
There was a modest store right of photographic goggle box camera selling touirst essentials together with snacks.
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AROUND MANTA COTTAGES
I spent the root together with terminal of my 4 days exploring the coastline both sides of MANTA on foot.
FIRST DAY WANDER
,,,,,along which angling praus were parked awaiting the afternoon-night session
Roadside has frequent domicile inwards modest linear villages - in all likelihood houses of seaweed farmers together with fishermen. Lotsa modest stores, bales (sitting platforms) where people---um---sat around together with talked together with perhaps played cards, a few touristy warungs together with unproblematic places to stay. No flash resorts. GOA GURI PUTRI on the Google ground epitome higher upwards is patch a good known religious surface area - THE TEMPLE OF THE CAVE. Putu from MANTA COTTAGES suggested I depository fiscal establishment check it out but non existence large on civilization or temples, I gave it a fille - subsequent reading tells me perhaps that was a mistake. There is a 2nd temple, SEGARA YEH ULAKAN, on the headland just brusk of the tower.
UPHILL LANE FROM MANTA COTTAGES - lotsa traffic (for the area) was coming out of a narrow steep lane to MANTA'S immediate northern side - together with then I decided to bring a wander upwards there. Seemed tp hold upwards a whole mount community inwards linear settlements along the lane - settlements besides modest to hold upwards villages or hamlets - inwards RURAL SETTLEMENT 101 dorsum inwards 1964 I think nosotros called them "roadsides". The lane continued steeply for what seemed 2km - lotsa kids together with families exterior houses, rattling friendly. Not certain what supports them - didn't seem to receive got much growing upwards at that topographic point - perhaps they are connected to the sea-weed together with fishing. Got quite high together with some panoramic views opened upwards but my camera's battery was flat.
ON THE LAST DAY I decided to walk the department of coast inwards the other (northwards - to a greater extent than correctly north-east) management from MANTA
LAST DAY WANDER
BOGA SEGARA WARUNG
MOLA MOLA WARUNG
SAMPALAN
PENIDA'S biggest town (it aint no city) starts only a few hundred meters past times MOLA MOLA. It is largely a linear town (although at that topographic point are a few dorsum streets) stretching a fleck to a greater extent than than 3km along the coastal road. Town centre is toward the far terminate from MANTRA/MOLA MOLA, nigh 6km from the former.
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PLACES AWAY FROM THE MANTA COTTAGES AREA
On days 2 together with iii I grabbed a rental moto from MANTA together with their rudimentary map of the island's attractions together with took off to explore farther afield.
MANTA'S 60K a twenty-four hours rental fee addition fuel was a pretty fair deal.
I headed south-west from MANTA. After a few km the coastal route turned right together with began to climb the plateau - some goodness slopes together with wicked hairpins.
However rapid infiltration sees a lack of running H2O inwards these gullies inwards dry out season. Rapid infiltration or not, the plateau top supports a goodness comprehend of wood together with shrubs. But soils must hold upwards lean - non much commercial cropping is seen upwards hither - perhaps some scattered commercial grazing. Most farming seems to hold upwards dispersed subsistence cropping/grazing.
Gets a fleck cool inwards the highest areas.
MATA AIR GUYANGAN
I wanted to depository fiscal establishment check out the awesome cliffs on PENIDA'S westward together with southward coast, but with no navigation device together with a VERY basic map I had no thought where I was. There are dozens of side roads together with sign-posting is largely absent including the names of many villages. Very trivial English linguistic communication is spoken but I got the full general thought I was heading for the far southern dot or perhaps a fleck northward from TANGLAD on a cutting up, super narrow dorsum road.
So narrow that a vehicle behind could non overtake - I pulled to the side together with allow it past times - it was a compact SUV with western passengers. I figured it must hold upwards a tour guide taking a political party somewhere interesting together with then I tucked inwards behind. After a few km nosotros parked amongst a temple at the top of some awesome cliffs - nosotros had reached AIR GUYANGAN which equally y'all tin encounter is non precisely at the far southern poiny. Nevertheless it was just the sort of identify I was seeking.
As my american backpacker friend Madison would say: "ARSUM!!"
Site at top left of pic is a modest religious temple. There is a bigger temple at the top of the stairs. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 dude collects a nominal parking fee for the temple together with stairs. An next warung provides welcome refreshments for stair climbers.
I root headed south-west to depository fiscal establishment check out ATUH BEACH which a High German daughter at MANTA told me was just gorgeous - she was non wrong.
ATUH BEACH - MY NEW BEST BEACH IN BALI
Because I'm a beaches nerd, this was the highlight of places I managed to visit.
ATUH BCH is nigh equally far due east on Penida equally y'all tin larn - it's 20km past times route from SAMPALAN together with 12km from Mantra Cottages.
It is possible to bring bikes a fleck farther downward the rails but it is super crude oil - only for experts.
The access rails from the northern parking surface area is nigh 500m long. The 2nd one-half is narrrow, super steep together with super crude oil - much rougher than the southern stairway inwards the higher upwards shot.
The side route to the SOUTHERN PARKING AREA is also good signposted on the chief route a trivial farther south. But I didn't bring this together with can't comment on subsequent signage or route surface. The fact that GOOGLE MAPS gives this slightly longer route from SAMPALAN a slightly shorter full go fourth dimension suggests the surface can't hold upwards besides bad. Punch ATUH BEACH PARKING into your navigation device to larn route directions.
Below this dot the rails steepens to a high warung seen past times click-expanding the shot iii higher upwards this - after which it drops VERY steeply downward a set of concrete stairs to the beach.
Locals receive got fix several warungs with nutrient together with drink. Sun-lounges/umbrellas together with edible bean bags tin hold upwards rented.
Note NUSA BATUPADASAN offshore inwards key pic. Sand was a pretty create clean white/yellow but pic straightaway higher upwards indicates it gets a fleck messy towards the dorsum of the beach.
I visited mid tide - high H2O marks indicated non a lot of sand at top of the tide.
SNORKELING? I didn't abide by whatever snorkelers or warungs hiring out gear. However my sense of tropical places similar this is that at that topographic point are ever interesting fringing coral together with enough of fish along the rocks of headlands together with islands. Once i time again I was besides lazy to depository fiscal establishment check it out,
Check the swell coming thru the narrow gap betwixt NUSA BATUPADASAN together with the southern headland - this is because the prevailing dry out flavor swell aligns with this opening. However at that topographic point was the occasional moving ridge working thru the large long gap betwixt NP together with the northern headland. None of the waves were goodness for body-surfing the twenty-four hours I visited fifty-fifty though swell inwards the opened upwards bounding main was pretty impressive that day.
AFTERNOON DESTINATION - CRYSTAL BAY
After lunching at MANTA I took off for CRYSTAL BAY on the other (western) side of PENIDA. Online together with printed go guides tell this is a MUST SEE - perhaps it was a few years dorsum but I was underwhelmed (although to hold upwards fair I didn't dive or snorkel which are said to hold upwards pretty good. Here's the affair - I don't dive unless it's free. I exercise snorkel most days for lobsters together with abalone inwards a gorgeous bay behind my house, receive got seen world's best coral/fishies on Australia's GREAT BARRIER REEF lotsa times, receive got seen i of PENIDA'S best on a dedicated snorkeling trip out of NUSA LEMBONGAN 20 years agone - it was okay but far from world's best - together with then I'm kinda jaded snorkel-wise together with unless somewhere promises to hold upwards especial I give it a miss. Forget question obligations to readers - at 71 if I don't wanna exercise something I don't. And I bet at that topographic point are some goodness specialist snorkeling reports for this identify online).
btw - the turn-off to GAMAT BAY which I also meant to depository fiscal establishment check out, is off this side road, but I missed it both coming together with going.
I forgot to add together a linear scale - it's 13km inwards a direct describe betwixt the identify markers for THE BAY together with MANTA
Behind the sand was a mish-mash of snorkel gear rental stands, warungs, inexpensive clothe stand upwards etc together with behind them a barren surface area of dirt, some standing H2O together with a parking lot (nominal charge). Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 few palms would exercise wonders for this eyesore area.
Incongruent - unmanned life guard tower facing the incorrect way. Who decided i was a goodness thought at a beach with virtually no surf together with no rip-currents?
Far northern department of the beach is nicest together with to the lowest degree busy - backed past times palms different key together with southern areas.
This is a lee shore together with doesn't larn whatever of the dry out flavor prevailing swell. The islet PALAU BATUMEJINONG together with NUSA LEMBONGAN (background) block whatever swell coming the other way. As such at that topographic point are no appreciably sized waves hither - pregnant no rip currents close the beach. This makes a condom swimming beach but bring tending of boat traffic - many of those boats inwards background receive got dropped daytrippers on the beach.
The surrounds of the islet looked to hold upwards ideal snorkeling territory to me.The narrow passage across to LEMBONGAN does larn rigid TIDAL CURRENTS. These could good roll into the outer bay together with then bring tending when deep H2O swimming together with snorkeling.
GETTING AWAY FROM PENIDA
I decided to bring the irksome populace vehicle/passenger from SAMPALAN to PADANGBAI on the mainland. The latter is much farther from my KUTA destination than the option fast boats to SANUR, but is a modest ship allowing me to walk around - agency amend than existence crammed into a cramped bumpy speedboat . And agency cheaper besides - would y'all believe less than $US3?
This is WHITE SAND BEACH just southward of PADANBAI's harbour. I had 2 hours to recheck the surface area before my PERAMA shuttle left for KUTA - I was walking this beach minding my concern when 2 dogs attacked me. One fleck me twice. At this fourth dimension 2 weeks after, I soundless haven't finished the RABIES together with TETANUS serial of shots. MEMO TO SELF - start carrying SNAKE BASHING STICK similar inwards the Australian bush when inwards BALI
ATTENTION - if y'all receive got extra information or encounter mistakes delight postal service below. But if y'all receive got QUESTIONS, delight inquire inwards THE FORUM which I depository fiscal establishment check oft when non traveling - whereas I depository fiscal establishment check private location pages similar this i only occasionally.
Sumber http://tezza-thailandbeachesandislands.blogspot.com/