Bangkok Thailand Place should to visiting: San Sebastian

visited July 2014


La Concha Beach

Some locomote guides claim San Sebastian has the best metropolis beaches inward the world. Hello, don't many tell the same virtually Barcelona? Maybe they hateful BIG CITY for the latter in addition to MEDIUM CITY inward the example of San Sebastian. Anyway, amongst a claim similar that I had to include San Sebastian inward my curt see to Spain.
Does it receive got the best medium metropolis beaches? More on that later.


LOCATION
San Sebastian is a Basque solid ground far north-east coastal metropolis unopen to France's southern Atlantic border. 


The city's 3 beach areas are book-ended past times 3 high areas for neat views, Monte Igueldo, Monte Urgull in addition to what I've called Zemoria Heights, on concern human relationship ane of the best accesses is via Zemoria St.
o q below Mte Urgull stands for the Old Quarter. The business/shopping expanse is largely betwixt the words "Concha" and "oq". The long distance double-decker station is nigh the fifth span across the river - local buses terminate all over town. Long in addition to medium distance trains come upwards into the station marked "trains" but at that topographic point is some other station for town in addition to immediate local expanse sevices reverse the quaternary span inward a higher identify the "o" of "bus statiOn"


BEACHES

LA CONCHA
Centrally located La Concha is the longest, most pop beach. It is overlooked past times a walking promenade amongst no shortage of cafe/bars nether which is a shaded concourse amongst alter sheds, offset assistance facilities etc. Most of the buildings lining the busy beach route is high halt accommodation. The sand is yellow/brown ("golden" inward the locomote guides) in addition to was pretty clean. The H2O was non bad for a metropolis beach but non the pristine materials I saw inward the Balaeric islands or on the Costa Brava. On a twenty-four hours which had pocket-size waves at Zurriola to the east, the sea was real benign. There are plenty of lifeguards in addition to goodness facilities for beach in addition to H2O sports. Note most people are non using sun-lounges, dissimilar the Castilian Med beaches, but just similar nearly all Aussie beaches.
If you lot click-expand you lot may live able to view that it is possible to walk along the sand to neighbouring Ondarreta bch when the tide is low.

The inward a higher identify was shot at virtually 1400 on a weekday in addition to you lot tin view the beach was pretty crowded. When I returned roughly 1730 at that topographic point was twice the crowd - seems locals hitting the beach en-mass after school/work. And what actually impacted was the ATMOSPHERE - I receive got never arrived at a beach in addition to been hitting past times the same wall of crowd dissonance you lot acquire when entering a large packed sports stadium. And I've been to Bondi amongst a heatwave crowd of 40000+ many times.

1900 shot of La Concha after inward the calendar week when the tide was up.




ONDARRETA BEACH
The western beach on Concha Bay is a shorter version of La Concha - but complaint this shot taken non long earlier the ane inward a higher identify it suggests this may live the beach to caput for when the tide is high.

LA ZURRIOLA BEACH
The city's tertiary beach is eastward across the river. Facilities in addition to H2O lineament are similar to the other beaches, sand peradventure a chip whiter in addition to definitely wider - you lot tin view the high tide grade here. Not overcrowded inward this 1400 shot, peradventure twice the people after but yet non jammed in.
This is where the nudists acquire - I works life them concentrated upwards the far halt unopen to the river break-wall. But at that topographic point were solely a few dozen amongst to a greater extent than "textiles" inward that department in addition to equally common no-one gave a damn.
Note Monte Urgull background correct from where you lot tin acquire neat views of all beaches. To its left inward far background is Monte Igueldo at the western halt of Concha Bay.


Zurriola's orientation allows to a greater extent than swell to acquire through in addition to this pocket-size surf wsas running when no waves were breaking at the other beaches. At times when the swell is up, Zurriola is supposed to live real goodness in addition to you lot tin acquire surf at the other beaches. I intend this may live most mutual inward wintertime although summertime Bay of Biscay storms are non all that scarce (storm winds create the best swell).
Board hire in addition to surfing lessons are available at Zurriola.

So does San Sebastian receive got the world's best metropolis beaches (medium metropolis division)? Not if lineament of sand, seat out in addition to multifariousness of beaches, H2O lineament in addition to beach weather* are the deciders. The identify I grew upwards in, Wollongong, would blow it out of the water. So would several other SE Australian cities similar the Gold Coast, Sunshine Coast-Noosa, Newcastle in addition to Gosford-Wyong. But similar Barcelona, if nosotros are talking facilities in addition to ease of access for the mass of residents San Sebastian peradventure rates correct upwards there. And nosotros haven't yet included the ATMOSPHERE I mentioned.

*I'm underwhelmed past times Basque solid ground weather. It is inward a zone which gets variable summertime conditions which puts it at a neat disadvantage to Spain's Mediterranean which has to a greater extent than consistently warm dry out days inward that season. True, my habitation part inward Commonwealth of Australia has also a variable summertime weather, but beingness at a lower latitude it is much to a greater extent than pleasant when a mutual frigidity forepart passes thru. And I can't retrieve the in conclusion fourth dimension at habitation when the mid-summer sea breeze was thence stiff (and cool) its unpleasantness made me avoid the beach.


MONTE URGULL
Now a major tourist attraction amongst its castle, chapel, towering statue of Christ, museum, winding paths thru prissy gardens in addition to fabulous outlook over both bays in addition to the city, Mte Urgull historically has been a major defensive seat when the metropolis had been nether attact from the sea.
Recent go has created to a greater extent than access points for the loma - I wandered along the seaside route on the reverse side inward the shot below until I came to a path leading uphill. You tin view the descent I made to the marina expanse bottom-right.
Mte Urgull seen from Mte Igueldo amongst "Zemolia Heights" behind (the extended high ridge is known equally Mte Ulia).

SOME GOOD VIEWS FROM URGULL
Zurriola


La Concha


Ondarreta


The old quarter


The city


Moto Castle equally the one-time defensive barriers in addition to barracks is called yet has a lot of its walls, buldings in addition to a few cannon on display. Part of ane restored edifice is at nowadays the pocket-size Mirando a San Sebastian museum which highlights the city's history. Entry if free! And the display interesting.

STATUE OF CHRIST
I thought I'd climbed to the real top of Urgull but I didn't brand it to the statue or its associated chapel - a goodness argue for taking a guide volume or similar on ane of these jaunts. Note: some telephoto inward this - it's farther upwards at that topographic point than appears on the image.


San Sebastian' marina is at the human foot of Mte Urgull in addition to the western halt of the old quarter. When I descended the hill, some sort of festival was going on. Here nosotros receive got a greasy pole contest.


Youngsters waiting to give it a go. Note lower battlement walls upper-background-left.



MTE IGUELDO
The imposing loma on the western headland of Concha Bay is a goodness ane to ascend for 3 reasons - exercise, goodness views in addition to the amusement/theme common upwards top (if that sort of matter floats yer boat. I'm underwhelmed). There is also a rather flash hotel.

If you lot don't wishing to hoof it up, at that topographic point is a vintage funicular that starts at beach degree - cost is a lilliputian over 3 euro provide which is solely a euro or thence to a greater extent than than the toll on the roadway at the entrance to the theme park. I did both methods - although I refused to pay the toll offset twenty-four hours in addition to thence didn't brand the real top then: I'm philosophically opposed to tolls when it's clear the route etc is inward Earth domain. And I react negative to some harridan screaming "YOU PAY! YOU PAY!" Not this happy camper, baby. Okay, peradventure machine drivers/motorcyclists should contribute to the route upkeep but walkers don't precisely crusade wearable in addition to tear of the bitumen. 

When climbing past times road, the offset one-half is through a pretty flash neighbourhood. Look for stairway shortcuts betwixt the road's zig-zags. It's a goodness steady climb on the road, people of average fitness volition non live troubled - solely the shortish stairways tin live described equally steep.

The route is just curt of 3km long - I was inward no hurry in addition to it took me virtually 50m. It is was real pop inward the belatedly afternoon amongst local machine guys in addition to dudes on large sports motorcycles doing a cruise/fang - terminating earlier the toll gate of course. Or just hanging out at viewpoints amongst their girls. Also quite a few route cyclists on preparation runs.

There are some pretty goodness views on the agency up.......
Ondaretta


The coast to the north-west

.....and from the top:
Mte Urgull, distant Mte Ulia in addition to lower center, Isla de Santa Clare. I saw many pocket-size boats ferrying people out the the isle but I didn't receive got the fourth dimension to cheque it out.

Ondarreta, La Concha in addition to the city.



SAN SEBASTIAN TO PASAIA/SAN PEDRO TREK
The strolls upwards Mte Igueldo in addition to Mte Urgull are pretty pocket-size alter compared to the hike along the Mt Ulia ridge to the rather attractive estuary towns of Pasia in addition to San Pedro.


This is roughly the route I took. Note the plough away from the ridge-route virtually 20% into the journeying from Zurriola. The rails is sign-posted pretty good - if inward uncertainty stick to the bigger path. Paths were inward fairly goodness status but I advise leaving the flip-flops or lightweight sandals at home. Just inward a higher identify the "p" of "stePs"  rupper correct of icon the rails meets a route which goes along the top of the ridge overlooking the Ria de Pasaia inlet. If you lot plough left instead of correct this route continues to a lighthouse high inward a higher identify the inlet entrance (under the 3km identify marking arrow), but I works life terminal access blocked amongst no goodness viewpoints. I ascended to inlet degree past times the laid of steps thence marked. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 path leads along the inlet which turns into a road. Total distance is virtually 10km - I was inward no hurry in addition to took peradventure 3 hours. Some sections are steep plenty to give people of average fitness a goodness workout but at that topographic point were no "hearbreak" climbs (although circumferentialy enhanced people may intend differently virtually the climbs upwards onto the ridge from each halt depending on which direction they select to travel. It seemed to me most people were travelling the reverse direction to me - peradventure because finding the start of the rails is easier from the Pasaia end).

Getting to the start of the Pasaia trek from the San Sebastian halt is non all that hard. Find Zemoria St aka Zemoriya Kalae nigh the eastern halt of Zuriola beach. Take the stairs at the top of the street. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 path leads roughly the high side of the white villa upwards at that topographic point (it was beingness remodelled when I went past times - I assume it volition remain white), past times which you lot volition view signs for the track.

Not also far from the top from the start of the rails inward a higher identify Zemoria is this rather goodness outlook over Zurriola.


There's some pretty goodness coastal scenery along the agency - this is no agency the best: I belatedly woke upwards that I'd demand ane for this page.


This is a (distorted) icon of the view from the top of the stairs which drib to Pasai inlet. Distorted because my elcheapo Olympus doesn't ever sew together these "panorama" shots together seamlessly. Nothing to do amongst dumb operator.


From the bottom of the stairs towards Pasaia. It's non odd to view container ships in addition to bulk-carriers cruising along hither because Pasaia is San Sebastian's port in addition to also has a fair chip of manufacturing. Lotsa angling trawlers are based hither too. Despite dock in addition to manufactory activities Pasaia is known for its restaurants, peculiarly fish restaurants. The reverse side of the inlet inward the middle distance has an attractive string of waterside restaurants in addition to tourist accommodation. There is a pocket-size ferry crossing the inlet inward that area.


This expanse is just curt of the double-decker halt for San Sebastian. I shot it to demonstrate the digital thermometer read-out top-right. About one-half the trekkers on the rails seemed French, in addition to they looked less than impressed past times the 40C heat. Such temps are to a greater extent than mutual where I alive but I welcomed an H2O ice cool beer or 3 at a waterside bar non far behind camera. The barman in addition to locals thought I was nuts sitting at an exterior tabular array but I prefer a hot H2O view anytime over the shaded, fan cooled interior of a bar.


THE OLD QUARTER

San Sebastian's old town, nestled below Mt Urgull on the narrow peninsula betwixt La Concha in addition to the river at Zurriol's nth, is a goodness identify to pass time.

The expanse is total of narrow alleys, many pedestrianised, lined amongst shops, restaurants in addition to bars. There is quite a lot of accommodation on offer, to a greater extent than frequently than non pension inward style. San Sebastian has a chip of a reputation equally a high halt shopping town in addition to many of the to a greater extent than exclusive boutiques are works life inward the old town.
The identify gets busy inward the belatedly afternoon in addition to tends to live packed at night.


The Basque telephone phone their tapas pintxosOne makes a prissy snack but 3 or 4 are surprisingly filling if you lot fancy a meal. These originally were non from this region, but for some argue pintxos featured at to a greater extent than eating places inward San Sebastian's old town than the other areas of Espana I visited. San Sebastian is said to receive got superior tapas/pintxos but I'm no gormet in addition to couldn't tell - they all sense of savor pretty goodness to me.  One thing's for sure, they tended to live to a greater extent than expensive inward San Sebastian, similar many other things.


The old town has some prissy churches. Santa Maria inward a higher identify is equally impressive within equally on the exterior. The San Sebastian Cathedral of course of study is a pace or v upwards - it is non inward the old town but if you lot click expand the alley shot ii inward a higher identify this you lot tin view it inward the distance. Not beingness a culture-vulture I didn't pay a visit. I din't see the several museums in addition to galleries inward the old town either.


The Boulevard is the southern edge of the old town. This spit avenue has many buses terminating on the vehicle side in addition to is the natural thoroughfare betwixt the ends of La Concha in addition to Zuriolla on this pedestrian side. Lots of pavement restaurant/bars etc. The expanse tends to acquire real crowded belatedly afternoon into the evening. People watching, the favourite pass-time of unmarried travellers, was excellent.

MY DIGS IN SAN SEBASTIAN
Pavement tables of Kaxio Backpackers' associated eating seat a prissy identify to pass time.

I was after a goodness value identify unopen to the beaches which had reasonably goodness user reviews. My search of booking sites led me to the determination that accommodation inward San Sebastian tends to live to a greater extent than expensive than my other destination. Kaxio Backpackers' seemed to live ane of the ameliorate deals in addition to sure filled my other requirements. I wrote the next review for the booking site:
"Good location inward the old town unopen to transport, beaches in addition to a host of restaurant/bars. Nice owners based inward downstairs eating seat (a goodness identify to pass time) in addition to the cleaner guy is a gem. Bathrooms pocket-size but clean. Good kitchen. But the identify is overpriced - my unmarried room was a real compact windowless dog-box at a similar cost to a typical packet room inward a Mallorca resort (TV, aircon, large puddle in addition to awesome buffet breakfast) a few days before. The washing machine cost 5 euro amongst no hand-washing facilities."


ZARAUZ aka ZARAUTZ

With over a calendar week inward the expanse I was keen to view a chip to a greater extent than of the coast. Biarritz inward French Republic is non all that far but I kinda intend the French insistence on solely speaking French at international tourist destinations peradventure doesn't deserve my Aussie dollars. Zarauz, which is closer, has a reputation of beingness a goodness surfing beach amongst a naturist department thence I thought I'd motion at that topographic point for a few days.

Zarauz is abt 18km past times route W of San Sebastian. Frequent buses in addition to local trains connect the ii - I caught a double-decker from direct behind the long distance double-decker shelters at SS double-decker station. The harbour breakwaters of the rather prissy fishing/tourist town Getaria tin live seen on the icon margin far-left.

As a bottom budget traveler I wan't whelmed past times the expense of Zarautz expanse accommodation, thence settled on what hostelworld.com called Zarautz All In One Camping. Turns out this is Stoke Travel San Sebastian Surf Camp, which has a department of the rather prissy Gran Camping Zarautz's big grounds high on the loma to the due south of the beach - the painting demonstrate 2 inward a higher identify was shot from adjacent.
I'm an older dude but places similar this don't stage me - equally an ex-surfer in addition to electrical current frequent backpacker I tend to jibe inward okay, peculiarly equally my policy is to maintain a depression profile in addition to cheque the scene.
Stoke Travel offers some other deals: they do a surfari along the Basque coast in addition to into due south W French Republic - I reckon this would live a neat agency to see/surf legendary spots similar Mundaka, Biarritz in addition to Hossegor. Stoke also receive got a political party boat out of Barcelona. Sounds similar fun. 

I was at that topographic point on a twin-share breakfast solely footing - but the policy seems to live that if the army camp is non fully booked they endeavour to give singles their ain tent. Thank God - ane of my criticisms of the identify is that the tents are a chip squeezy, Fine for couples or ii friends similar the guys to my left or girls to the right. But I didn't fancy sharing amongst Miss Sweden inward the above. Much.
My other criticism was cost - higher than a comfy bed inward a backpacker articulation dorsum habitation - in addition to Commonwealth of Australia is an expensive identify these days amongst its overvalued substitution rate.


I'm non sure how goodness the mainly Aussie staff was at surf instruction, but the affable blokes sure were fantabulous hosts in addition to had the powerfulness to brand everyone experience welcome in addition to inclusive. I was a chip surprised at the seat out of seemingly shy immature singles arriving - inward no fourth dimension they were purpose of the group. No uncertainty the 5 euro all you lot tin potable beer/sangria bargain helped. This bright offering was the reverse of overpriced. btw, the political party each nighttime seemed to halt roughly midnight - belike purpose of the bargain amongst Gran Camping. I intend ragers powerfulness frequently go along downward inward town. The inclusive breakfast of eggs, cereal, toast etc was pretty good. Plenty of people are on total board in addition to the other meals looked okay. I ate dinner inward the neareby rather goodness value eating seat of Gran Camping Zarautz. Surf Camp uses Gran Camping's bathroom/toilet blocks which are big, create clean in addition to fully featured. Gran Camping's free wifi is pretty goodness roughly the eating seat in addition to bath blocks. 
You tin just view some of the surf boards inward background above. There seemed to live ane for everybody - from plenty of large high flotation learner boards to some rather prissy looking curt boards for experts - although I didn't divulge whatever gun surfers.



Not also sure virtually Stoke Travel's logo

ZARAUZ BEACH
Zarauz's long beach. Very broad hither at depression tide in addition to sufficient sand when the tide is up. Water shelving gently. Water lineament non bad - the sand pretty create clean but closer to brown-yellow than white. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 pedestrian promenade runs behind the sand from virtually mid beach to the far halt in addition to has restauants, bars, shops behind in addition to several sporting areas. An after schoolhouse basketball game comp seemed to live running during my visit. The town behind has a goodness shopping expanse in addition to lots of tourist accommodation.The beach's nude department is supposed to live downward the nigh halt but I saw none - but equally you lot tin view the conditions was non great. Neither was the surf - I had no wishing to borrow ane of Surf Camp's boards.

I'm non a large fan of these large opened upwards featureless beaches - I similar mine compact amongst lighter sand, no village in addition to book-ended amongst forested headlands.

The surfers tended to hang on the eastern halt of the beach. These people had me perplexed - they seemed happy to sit down roughly - I can't retrieve seeing whatever walking across the towards the H2O amongst a board. Not that the crap surf at the fourth dimension was encouraging. They reminded me of the Japanese pretend-surfers I used to view on the Gold Coast, at Bondi in addition to Manly etc. These dudes wing into Australia, purchase the board/shorts/wet suites etc in addition to and thence hang virtually the beach staring at the ocean. All the gear in addition to no idea. We didn't complain - at that topographic point would live neat surf store deals inward barely used equipment when they went home. Now peradventure I'm incorrect virtually these Euro surfers, but when the surf was bad on ane of our many surf trips dorsum habitation nosotros didn't sit down roughly the beach - nosotros would live off skateboarding or tuning tourist babes/surfer groupies/truanting schoolgirls inward local clubs, pubs or malls. Um....in my case, brand that TRYING to tune.... But if holidays are virtually relaxation, the people inward the shot sure looked relaxed. More thence than if they were dodging cement trucks on the local hell loma or getting burned past times the town's H2O ice queen in addition to her friends.
BTW these crap pocket-size moving ridge conditions are ideal for surf schools - it's harder to larn when the waves are big, fast in addition to tubing.
If you lot cheque the headland inward the background you lot volition live able to view the lower parts of the walking rails upwards to the camping ground expanse - virtually 10 minutes total.


GETARIA
I could easily view this pocket-size fishing/holiday town seemingly a km or thence W of Zarauz from Surf Camp's hilltop.So I took a walk roughly the winding coastal route in addition to checked it out - turned out to live to a greater extent than similar 3km. Hey, prissy identify - smallish sweetness beach amongst a pop eating seat bar at its far end, pocket-size harbour packed amongst angling in addition to leisure boats......

....and a characterful "old quarter" type lane amongst lots of trendy shops, cafe/bars etc leading upwards from beach degree to the principal town above. The pocket-size town seemed to receive got no shortage of tourist accommodation. Regular buses caput dorsum to Zauauz in addition to to San Sebastian.


RATING AND RANKING SAN SEBASTIAN.
I actually enjoyed my see to San Sebastian. I works life the metropolis beaches fun in addition to unique inward atmosphere, the montes well worth the climb, the trek to Pasaia excellent, the old quarter the common old town goodness value, Stoke Surf Camp a chip of a blast, the full general Zarauz expanse worth the fourth dimension in addition to people watching excellent. I charge per unit of measurement it an A.
BUT make that an A-. Whereas my other places of see inward Espana all rank higher:  Tossa de Mar A+ amongst Ibiza, Mallorca in addition to Barcelona all an A.

I intend San Sebastian's reputation equally an "in'' destination amongst trendoids in addition to the "it" crowd may brand other people rank it higher than me. The cinema festival in addition to beingness named European Culture Capital 2016 (in 2011! How does that work?) could good give it kudos amongst the arty laid in addition to civilization vultures fifty-fifty if they can't see at substitution times, fashionistas may live attracted past times the rep of the high halt boutiques, foodies past times the "superior" tapas/pintxos in addition to unique basque dishes, history buffs past times the old quarter in addition to Moto Castle. This "in" identify element may explicate why accommodation in addition to many other prices* inward San Seb are higher on average than my other destination.
But my experience is that all my other destinations apart from Barcelona receive got nicer beaches in addition to ameliorate sea water. I intend civilization vultures in addition to artistic types volition divulge Barcleona agency superior. History buffs volition divulge to a greater extent than of involvement inward the other areas....

History nerds volition dear Tossa de Mar's castle/walled old town dating from the xiv century. So volition aesthetes.

 ....fashionistas to a greater extent than multifariousness in addition to ameliorate value inward Barcelona in addition to to a greater extent than exclusivity inward Ibiza. I thought Ibiza's in addition to Tossa's old quarters to a greater extent than attractive. People watching is ameliorate inward Ibiza in addition to no worse inward the others. Scenery is ameliorate inward all others bar Barcelona - in addition to at that topographic point you lot tin divulge wonderful scenery a curt twenty-four hours trip away. Ditto trekking. But solely Tossa beats San Sebastian for trekking forthwith out of town.
I forgot ragers. No uncertainty San Seb has some neat nightlife venues but Ibiza, Mallorca in addition to Barcelona receive got to a greater extent than in addition to better.
I receive got already mentioned the superior conditions inward the south. This isn't based on the times of my see solely - I'm a weather/climate nerd in addition to receive got a existent goodness thought virtually long term conditions conditions inward all these regions.
Some of you lot are peradventure thinking I'm downrating San Sebastian on concern human relationship of the express nudist expanse at Zuriola in addition to lack of naturists at Zarauz. But if you lot hold back at the residuum of this spider web log you lot volition divulge most reports are on my favourite destinations of Thailand, Republic of Indonesia in addition to Malaysia. No nude beaches there, thence lack of same is non something I down-rate a identify on.

Okay all this is just my subjective persuasion based on excessively curt visits of all places. People who know all areas may good charge per unit of measurement in addition to rank differently. It would live neat if you lot could post service inward below giving your opinion.

*gotta praise the depression world double-decker prices, at to the lowest degree for longer trips. Hell, I went 25km from San Sebastian's airdrome nigh the French edge into town for virtually 2.20 euro. The buses dorsum from Pasaia after the trek in addition to to Zarauz  were similarly inexpensive..




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