Best Thailand Beaches: Perhentian Islands.

Last visited Sept 2013

Dad in addition to fille gear upward to banking enterprise check the fish-feeding frenzy at Turtle Bay - Perhentian Besar.

Long the backpackers' haven, the Perhentians are at nowadays becoming a must-do for a fuller hit of travellers. Makes sense - the attractions are user-wide: everyone is looking for white sand beaches, clear water, skillful snorkelling in addition to overnice scenery. And problems of the past times similar higher than normal criminal offense seem to take away hold been eradicated past times some heavy policing - in addition to inwards July 2011 the common high flavor overcrowding was non apparent. Recession inwards the northern hemisphere may non hold out all bad.

LOCATION
One of a issue of attractive isle sites inwards far north-east peninsula Malaysia. Kota Bharu is the nearest drome although Kuala Terengganu is a skillful 1 to wing out of if you lot also see Pulau Redang in addition to Pulau Kapas after the Perhentians. Pulau Lang Tengah is some other skillful 1 to see along the way - it is the modest isle betwixt the Perhentians in addition to Redang. Kuala Besut is the primary mainland pier for the Perhentians. Scale - it's 150km from the Kota Bharu placemark to the Puala Kapas placemark.

MAP
One of the best comes from the efficient De Penarik Beach Travel & Tour booking website. Looks similar they got aid from the Marine Park Department.

WHICH ISLAND?
The BIG ISLAND (Besar) has:
- ameliorate snorkelling off the beach
- to a greater extent than higher hit accommodation
- arguably the best beach
- camping ground sites
The SMALL ISLAND (Kecil) has:
- a ameliorate travellers' scene
-more budget accommodation
- ameliorate trekking
- to a greater extent than chances to larn away from the busy scene

But the islands are hence unopen it's like shooting fish in a barrel to take away a resort on either in addition to bound across to the other to banking enterprise check the scene - H2O taxi toll betwixt the Long Beach on Kecil in addition to the pier at Perhentian Island Resort was only rm10 inwards July 2011.

Alternatively, why non do every bit I did inwards my 1999, 2011 in addition to 2013 visits in addition to split your remain betwixt resorts on both islands? You are moving to a novel isle in addition to resort, but it only takes v minutes in addition to minimal expense.

PERHENTIAN BESAR.

Modified Google globe ikon to demo places I take away hold stayed over the years plus walking tracks. There are no roads. More detailed beach, walking in addition to snorkelling maps tin hold out institute down-page.

BESAR BEACHES

The southern due west coast beaches

(from the south)
The southern most beach has no resorts. Snorkelling seemed pop both off the beach in addition to from boats at the far end.

Taken from the same rocks every bit the previous shot, Teluk beach is next 1 north. This is where the steep jungle rails from the southward coast's busier Flora Bay hits the eastward coast. Teluk is the site of the Teluk Ke Ke military camp site.

2013 alter - the modest unused pier inwards the previous shot seems to take away hold been enlarged in addition to was sure enough busy inwards Sept 2013. The angling families appeared to hold out living inwards tents behind the beach, although a previously closed "resort" type edifice on the northern department of the beach behind photographic goggle box camera at nowadays seemed to take away hold local families inwards occupation.

Teluk North has also had a lot of operate on its pier. This is shot from the walkway to the next beach north, Abdul's/Tuna Bay - the previously closed JD Palace which at nowadays seems to hold out the habitation of angling families is to the left of camera.

Abdul's beach is separated from Teluk past times stairs in addition to a brusk walkway. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 longish pier from which this shot was taken halves the beach with Abdul's situated on this southern section. The pier did non be on my '99 see in addition to has detracted from the beach's appeal, but this is soundless a pretty overnice area. Okay snorkelling about those patches of coral inwards shot but non comparable to the other side of the pier. Actually I'm pretty sure Abdul's has moved location in addition to was at the due north halt of the combined beach inwards '99. Abdul's is a lot flasher too - but soundless has some budget bungalows along with a large bunch of flashpacker criterion places.

Abdul's Beach from the southern end

I decided to brand Abdul's 1 of my stays on the 2013 trip. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 pretty sweetness expanse - I'll endeavour to verbalize Lady Tezza into doing a trip study when she gets a chance.

Tuna Bay. Same beach due north of Abdul's pier - it truly curves about the far corner for some other 100m or so: the beach is soundless skillful in addition to the snorkelling is some of the ameliorate stuff I take away hold seen off the beach inwards Malaysia or Thailand inwards the concluding few years with some pretty skillful coral varieties in addition to fishies. No shortage of piscines hanging about the pier either. Some overnice resorts along hither - banking enterprise check De Panarak's map upward page. Tuna Bay resort is the most highly rated Besar accommodation on Trip Adviser at the fourth dimension of writing. At the far halt it becomes hard to go along moving northwards - the 250m walk-way I used inwards '99 over an extended rocky department seems to take away hold fallen or been swallowed past times the jungle. I retrieve at depression tide you lot could wade about the rocks but the tides did non suit my see this time. UPDATE 2013 - I institute a jungle rails along the H2O pipeline which goes across to Mama's beach to the north. More details inwards the TREKKING SECTION.

Tuna Bay beach 2013 - the actual resort is at the corner inwards background. Structure at right seems to hold out some form of National Park educational establishment - had lots of high schoolhouse historic menstruum students hanging around, taking lessons, snorkelling, having meals. Beach soundless pretty white - I retrieve my latest elcheapo Olympus's color residue is less than sweet.

Tuna Bay due north - this smaller department has been separated past times either ABC or Sea Horse resort extending right to the ocean far background - I shot this from the stairs upward to Cocohut Resort so you lot could maybe await at it every bit Cocohut Beach.


The northern due west coast beaches

The northern due west coast beaches - submerged sand on coral shelf brand Mama's in addition to Coral View West await to a greater extent than impressive than reality. Coral View North in addition to especially the Perhentian Island Resort beach take away hold plenty of sand at all tides.

Mama's beach is instantly past times the hard to go past times stone department morth of Tuna Bay in addition to is the poorest on the isle - non existent at high tide but given to untidy tidal flats with broken coral in addition to sharpish rocks when the H2O goes out. No matter, the best beach on the isle at Perhentian Island Resort is a niggling over 10 minutes walk away. I stayed at Mama's inwards '99, non thru selection but because it was the only house I could larn into inwards those crowded days with fewer resorts in addition to hard forwards booking. Not a bad place. UPDATE - I had a few meals hither inwards 2013. Pretty skillful budget nutrient in addition to the house soundless seems popular.

Mama's skinny beach widens nearly 100m due north into what I telephone band Coral Resort's western beach. In fact it looks a lot nicer hither than reality - mainly because it has the same depression tide blues every bit Mama's. In '99 that modest creek crossing the beach mid-way along (click to expand shot) was dire with pollution. It was considerably improved inwards 2011 in addition to virtually non-existent inwards 2013.
Coral Resort has a 2d beach about the other side of that far headland - seen inwards the next shot...

Mama's/Coral View due west beach is  not a known turtle hatchery (Bubble's in addition to [not surprisingly] Turtle Bay are), but this niggling dude in addition to some mates were scuttling about at twilight, just a chip behind the photographic goggle box camera inwards the previous shot, likely next Reef Resort's restaurant.

...Coral Resort's northern beach taken from the Perhentian Island Resort pier - the sand is a chip coarse with broken coral in addition to it also suffers the depression tide blues, but overall non a bad niggling beach. If you lot are non happy, the best beach on the isle is less than v minutes upward those stairs to the left.

Coral Resort's northern beach inwards 2013 - sorry nearly the less than abrupt image; the elcheapo Olympus doesn't take away hold a high-end ikon stabiliser for when a passing bikini baby makes me nervous - but it does sideslip into my shirt pocket with room to spare. 
In the lowest quarter of the tide it is fairly hard to come inwards the H2O on concern human relationship of lots of broken coral underfoot but at that spot is a sandy patch to right of photographic goggle box camera where the dive store parks its boat. I institute snorkeling pretty ordinary coral-wise to right of photographic goggle box camera in addition to behind towards the Perhentian Island Resort pier, but it was non bad about in addition to past times that offshore stone background far right.
I made this resort my outset halt this trip, volition endeavour to larn a trip study done soon.

Best beach on the isle - inwards front end of the Perhentian Island Resort. This is shot from the walkway betwixt Coral Resort in addition to PIR. If you lot click to expand you lot tin ameliorate run into the walkway bottom right in addition to business office of this bay's pier bottom left. Because the pier is at the halt of the bay it does non detract from the appearance every bit much every bit state Abdul's.

Another shot of the beach at PIR. Lovely fine sand, real clear H2O deep plenty at all tides except against the far headland. Note this beach is non exclusive to the resort. You tin easily access every bit far away every bit Mama's, add together a 10 infinitesimal jungle trip from the due north halt of Tuna Bay/Abdul's beach in addition to several guests from my Flora Bay (south island) resort inwards 2011 took the 25 infinitesimal jungle rails to pass fourth dimension on this beach. The best way to access from the to a greater extent than distant locations would hold out past times H2O taxi - plenty come upward over from the other island. 


North coast beach
Turtle Beach is the only due west coast Besar beach you lot cannot access on foot. But it is pop with beach fans who larn a H2O taxi to drib them off for a few hours. Similar sand in addition to H2O to PIR in addition to some okay snorkelling off the rocks to the north-west - ameliorate unopen to the rocks than out where the snorkelling-trip boats park.


South coast beaches.
Flora Bay is the longest beach on the island. Unfortunately it suffers quite badly its total length from the depression tide blues with real shallow H2O a long way from the beach at depression tide. The falling tide exposes large expanses of to a greater extent than often than non sand flats but broken rocks appear some distance behind photographic goggle box camera past times Arwana Resort's pier. Pretty appealing nevertheless dorsum inwards '99, it at nowadays has perchance a few too many resorts.
Snorkelling off the beach is real ordinary but Shark Point is at the far halt of that distant headland - a 350m swim from the beach (don't enquire me how I know) is a real pop spot with the daytrip snorkelling boats because of pretty skillful coral, fish including some bigger ones in addition to plenty of harmless reef sharks.

Bubble's Beach on its ain niggling bay on the eastern side of the southward coast is some other that tin only hold out reached past times H2O taxi - unless you lot are staying at Bubble's Dive Resort, a rather attractive flash-packer/lower mid hit articulation behind the trees at the far halt of the beach - which was 1 of the few resorts I saw inwards 2011 which looked to hold out running close capacity. This is a pretty skillful beach with overnice sand although non every bit fine every bit state PIR's, clear water, deep plenty H2O at depression tide in addition to pretty skillful snorkelling off the beach. Some effective shade from beachside trees most of the day.



TREKKING ON BESAR
If you lot banking enterprise check the outset Google Earth ikon on the page or the maps below you lot volition run into that it is possible to do a circumnavigation of all settled parts of Besar excluding Bubbles past times combining jungle tracks with beach walks. The total would take away hold 2 hours or hence - if you lot are non that keen, the smaller sections bring together some pretty attractive places.

Flora Bay to Perhentian Island Resort/Mama's

The best formed rails inwards recent years runs from the western side of Arwana Resort. But the sparse greenish delineate lower centre is roughly where the older rails ran from mid-beach - at that spot was no apparent divergence signal inwards 2011/2013: likely behind a resort. The sparse grayness delineate bottom centre is the concrete path which runs from behind the western Flora Bay resorts to the H2O works life - inwards '99 you lot could access the primary cross isle rails from the H2O works life too.

This is a reasonably like shooting fish in a barrel walk with only a few steepish slopes in addition to tin hold out done inwards flip-flops or other lite footwear although ameliorate shoes are ever a skillful idea. This rails inwards '99 used to leave of absence nearly mid-beach at Flora Bay but at nowadays at that spot is a much clearer in addition to signposted entrance on the western side of Arwana Resort a chip inland from the litttle mosque. The outset 10 minutes behind the beach is a trifle hot but 1 time you lot striking the jungle expanse at that spot is plenty of shade. After some other 10 minutes of to a greater extent than often than non not too steep climbing over a depression saddle you lot accomplish a downgrade where the rails splits - for PIR's lovely beach (5 minutes) take away hold the right branch which dives downhill to some squarish metallic H2O towers in addition to hence past times some of PIR's cheaper A-frame hillside bungalows to emerge beachside close the pier.
To larn to Mama's take away hold the left branch which hence loops left slightly uphill in addition to continues past times the dorsum of Coral View Resort to descend to the nurture of the real concluding huts on the southern halt of Mama's - 10 minutes from the junction. By the status of the track, few people purpose this department - it is much nicer taking the coastal route betwixt PIR in addition to Mama's.

This is nearly the roughest department of the rails to Mama's - I retrieve it was seat inwards every bit an access rails for the H2O pipelines which run betwixt an artesian H2O works life behind Flora Bay beach in addition to Perhentian Kecil hamlet (it looks similar the pipeline goes along the seabed betwixt the ii islands).

Mama's to Cocohut/Tuna Bay

It appears that sand extends right along this department of coast inwards the higher upward image. However inwards all 3 of my trips the sand betwixt the ii brusk horizontal scarlet lines was deposited on the seabed stone shelf along with a lot of broken coral, bouldrs etc in addition to fifty-fifty at lower tide times, H2O too deep inwards parts for like shooting fish in a barrel wading extended right to the jungle-side rocks.
In '99 at that spot was a concrete in addition to timber walkway betwixt the 2 beaches but this had been swallowed past times he jungle past times 2011 - even hence I figured the locals would desire to movement betwixt these areas without the expense of a H2O taxi in addition to went looking for a pathway inwards 2013....

The locals take away hold made it pretty like shooting fish in a barrel for me - this sign is on a pumping station shed at the far southern halt of Mamas'beach - it points towards a pretty clear rails leading uphill into the jungle amongst a H2O pipe. This rails undulates a chip but is non too challenging - at 1 phase the H2O pipeline splits with a smaller piping staying lower - I stuck with the bigger piping because the rails seemed ameliorate formed. After nearly 10 minutes....

....it pops out behind photographic goggle box camera hither next the highest/most northern of Cocohut's chalets. The smaller pipeline emerged at the lower left of shot.
Cocohut looks a pretty overnice flashpacker storey resort for those who don't hear a chip of a climb from the beach.

Flora Bay to the southern eastern beaches
Go to the far western halt of Flora bay in addition to await for the concrete path which runs from at that spot to the H2O works life behind a lot of the Bay's accommodation. About 50m from the beach halt of the concrete you lot volition run into a sign JUNGLE TREKKING to the left.
This is a existent tough 1 - super steep for 10 minutes on each side in addition to with lots of rocks in addition to tree roots which brand flimsy footwear a no-no. Very skillful jungle though. Near the Teluk Beach the rails splits but whatever 1 of nearly 4 branches volition larn you lot to the sand. This rails is a skillful workout but the beaches at each halt are good worth it.

2013 improvement when going inwards the opposite direction:the divergence from the western Teluk side is much clearer at nowadays - this is towards the southern halt of the beach.

ARWANA RESORT
This is a midrange house at the far eastern halt of Flora Bay. I decided to remain hither because it also has a dorm - the combination of a dorm, a fabulous puddle in addition to a overnice comfy antechamber with lots of chairs in addition to fans where you lot tin sit down about into the nighttime in addition to read etc is pretty appealing after several weeks of backpacking. The fact that it could hold out pre-paid inwards aussie dollars on Agoda added to the appeal.
Arwana has Eco Resort inwards its total championship but I could run into real niggling eco nearly the house - no solar panels, air current turbines or fifty-fifty recycling bins. One poster nearly preserving soft corals. Unlike a lot of Perhentian accommodation you lot tin purchase a beer here. Not sure nearly wine/spirits/cocktails.

Arwana from its pier. Note the beach hither is non swell - virtually non-existent at high tide yet the boat left of shot was sitting on sand at lowest tide. However the sand widens at high tide nearly 70m to left of camera, although the low-tide blues soundless prevailed. Big puddle behind lobby/restaurant expanse inwards shot is surrounded past times 3 storey modern blocks of rooms in addition to at that spot are some rather overnice beachfront chalets to left of camera. Dorm expanse is to the far right behind other accommodation.
Food past times way of buffets - most guests are on packages. I wasn't but soundless institute the 18rm brekky pretty skillful value (egg tragics note, no egg station). I tin hoover plenty downwards at a buffet brekky to brand dejeuner superfluous. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 distich of real skillful value beach restaurants inside 150m to left of photographic goggle box camera for other meals which at Arwana were less value than brekky - to a greater extent than similar 35rm.

Part of Awana's lovely pool. Nice H2O autumn to right, puddle large plenty to brand lap-swimming a non-tedious way of burning off buffet calories. Lord's Day lounges neat for swanking it out with a bottle of duty gratis whisky from Singapore's swell budget terminal piece checking out the mid-range heart-breakers. Such ladies don't endure the Macca's/Krispy Kreme lateral expansion to the extent of ship service Y2000 backpacker babes.

The dorm expanse is inwards a shady expanse betwixt Arwana's eastern most modern wing in addition to the eastern headland of Flora Bay. I retrieve this may take away hold been seat inwards to attract divers to the dive school, but I institute I was the only western invitee in addition to they gave me a 2 double bunk room all to myself. Lots of locals inwards other rooms but every bit far every bit I could operate out, nearly all seemed to hold out staff.
My room big, clean, comfy, serenity - my only electrical charge was the exterior bath needed a skillful clean-up which I asked for twice to no avail.
Value? Well my $aud18/rm55 a nighttime could take away hold gotten me a reasonable fan chalet at nearby budget joints - but they didn't take away hold the swell puddle or comfy lobby. And past times this phase of the trip I'd stayed at plenty of budget chalets. Viva la change.


BEER ON BESAR
For some years betwixt my outset 2 visits it was hard to larn a beer inwards the Perhentians, but a alter to a less fundamentalist regional authorities has eased the province of affairs somewhat. In the southern western beaches expanse Tuna Bay has beer. If you lot are staying at the northern halt of the western beaches you lot volition honour a beer at Reef Resort and Perhentian Islands Resort. At Flora Bay Arwana had beer inwards a separate expanse in addition to at to the lowest degree 1 of the beach restaurants unopen to the due west could do the job. I didn't await further. Bubbles with English linguistic communication owners likely has beer but I forgot to check. Note booze aint inexpensive - 2013 prices were betwixt rm12/14 for a 330ml can. I loathe beer inwards cans!


PERHENTIAN KECIL.
Interestingly the modest isle isn't that much smaller than the large one. As a affair of fact, if lengthy trekking is your thing this isle is much better. Fewer beaches to take away from - but at that spot are some overnice ones, including a few swell get-away-from-it choices.

KECIL BEACHES

East coast beaches
Kecil's famous Long Beach. Old Perhentian hands volition bemoan the evolution - if you lot click the shot to expand you lot volition run into the 2 storey concrete constructions mid beach in addition to the mega pier at the far northern end. Those beach umbrellas/mats are a chip European too - but truly at that spot is non too much shade at this beach in addition to at rm10/day - rm2/hour they are non bad value. Anyway at that spot is soundless plenty of bare sand to lay a towel or sarong. Note the relative lack of people at 2pm on a fine twenty-four hours at the real halt of June.
I retrieve the Malaysians could take away hold a hint from busy Thai isle beaches in addition to organise their boats into dedicated in addition to to a greater extent than compact buoyed-off areas.
Note the wind-turbines high on the loma inwards the background - the path to D'Lagoon goes past times these.

This is the department of coast behind photographic goggle box camera inwards the previous shot - ie just southward of Long Beach. I noticed on my 1999 see that at depression tide this expanse developed into a serial of modest sandy coves for a skillful 400m - ideal for sunning. The tides were incorrect to demo these on my latest visits - but this expanse was quite pop with snorkellers higher upward quarter tide - at that spot is some coral starting someway off the rocks in addition to plenty of fish inwards the sandy area.

I thought the northern halt of Long Beach was far to a greater extent than attractive - nicer cleaner sand, fewer boats/people/umbrellas - although the H2O was shallower off the beach every bit the tide dropped. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 existent skillful old fourth dimension beach bar restaurant, The Pit Stop, at left of image.

Dave Elliot sent this fabulous shot of Long Beach dorsum inwards 1994. You tin run into why some old-timers larn hence upset nearly development. My 1999 see saw the beach to a greater extent than developed, but closer to this shot than my 2011 pic 3 up-page.

2013 - Long Beach seemed non greatly changed from 2011 - the start of the cross-island rails close the southern halt seemed easier to honour in addition to at that spot was to a greater extent than rubbish lining the near-beach business office of this track. The biggest alter was hither close the northern halt where Bu Bu Long Beach has expanded. Beachfront eatery at its front-left was advertising seafood bbq for rm160++ per somebody in addition to bottles of vino for rm240++. Western prices inwards a 3rd public country. I didn't telephone band in.


D'Lagoon has the only other eastward coast Kecil beach (well, the hamlet has a beach but it isn't too touristy). D'Lagoon is way upward the northern halt of the island. The bay inwards front end used to take away hold truly skillful snorkelling but had sadly deteriorated this concluding see - the best stuff was unopen to the rocks instantly right of camera. Beach doesn't endure too much from depression tide problems in addition to has sand out into the H2O at such times. Note at that spot are 2 ordinarily deserted eastward coast beaches, Turtle (10 minutes walk) in addition to Adam in addition to Eve (20m) accessed from D'Lagoon - swell for sunsets or just some seclusion. D'Lagoon's biggest negative for some volition hold out its isolation - a pretty strenuous 1 hour+ trek from Long Beach or a H2O taxi each excursion.

D'Lagoon Resort seemed to take away hold the highest concentration of budget travellers of all the accommodation I saw. This is shot from the eatery behind beach - a pretty relaxed house to hang out. Note that apart from budget in addition to flashpacker chalets D'Lagoon also has a dorm.

D'lagoon 2013 - that 2-storey construction nether the palms mid-beach seemed novel or expanded from my concluding visit.

September 2013; novel southern eastward coast resort nether construction just past times the due north halt of the hamlet - banking enterprise check the tiny beach at right.

A few hundred meters due north of the previous shot, some other much bigger construction was inwards its early stage. No beach hither - maybe they conception to ship some sand in; maybe a overnice puddle or ii plus regular shuttles the v minutes due north to Long Beach volition do the trick. 
I called past times both novel constructions when walking the village-Long beach route - no indication of proposed names.

West coast beaches

Northern due west coast beaches

from the north
Kecil's Turtle Beach - a real brusk flatish jungle rails walk from D'Lagoon on the next due west coast. If you lot click shot to expand you lot tin ameliorate run into a fair chip of stone in addition to broken coral on the beach, the shallowness of the H2O off-shore inwards this mid-tide pic, in addition to how clear the H2O is. Killer sunsets.

Next southward is Adam in addition to Eve Beach - longer, ameliorate sand which extends into the H2O in addition to deeper H2O off the beach. This is reached past times a signposted brusk side-track off the primary trekking rails betwixt the air current generators (sign ship service after nearly 20 minutes) in addition to D'Lagoon (15min) - don't hold out tempted to take away hold the ii unposted side-tracks closer to D'Lagoon if coming from that end.

For desire of its right name, I'm calling the next 1 southward Wind Turbine Beach on concern human relationship it was used every bit an unloading signal for materials to build the air current turbine/solar panel farm some distance southward upward a real steep route graded past times the contractors. I didn't telephone band inwards here, beingness hot in addition to tired from the already steep climb out of the Adam in addition to Eve beach expanse to close the top of the steep route - this shot was sent to me by mudshark82.

I saw a few other patches of sand from a passing speedboat farther southward on the northern one-half of the due west coast but these are only accessible from the ocean - maybe I should take away hold kayaked upward from Coral Beach but I gotta acknowledge I was feeling a chip lazy. Here's a take away a opportunity for all you lot intrepid trip reporters to ship information in addition to pix in addition to run into yer stuff published.


Mid due west coast beaches.

Not too many people know nearly the 3 modest beaches I've labelled Shari Las, including me until my latest 2013 visit. Senja Bay in addition to Shari La resorts are the ii places I've stayed at on Coral Bay.

Midway downwards the eastward coast, Coral Bay is Perhentian Kecil's 2d most pop beach. Pretty overnice sand, clear H2O in addition to a large hit of accommodation - extending to the rocks inwards far background in addition to behind photographic goggle box camera (this is shot from Senja Bay Resort's eatery which is at the southern halt of the beach).
Biggest negative is the depression tide blues - it gets pretty shallow a fair way from the beach at depression tide. However no unattractive rocks or mud flats are exposed.
Snorkelling inwards 2011 was non hear blowing - at that spot were some interesting patches of coral inwards the buoyed-off swimming enclosure a fair way off the beach to left of photographic goggle box camera but a lot of dead in addition to broken stuff closer in. Plenty of fish to maintain piscene fans happy.

Coral Bay in addition to Long Beach are quite unopen - connected past times this good paved 10 infinitesimal path with moderate slopes (it was a much to a greater extent than interesting jungle rails inwards 1999). Building activity at each beach halt had made the start/end a chip confusing, but await for signs at the far northern halt of Coral Bay close the pier in addition to close the southern halt of Long Beach. Taking just nearly whatever rails inland at the latter volition larn you lot onto this path. UPDATE 2013 - a lot clearer now.
Note you lot soundless demand a torch at night.
Inevitably edifice has started to extend itself along this rails in addition to beingness off-beach at that spot are some overnice bargains for newish places. One joint, Tropicana towards the top of the saddle had dorm rooms for rm15 (that's nearly $us5) in addition to pretty overnice private fan rooms at rm40 (late June 2011). Next see I wouldn't hold out surprised to honour accommodation in addition to restaurants the total length of this path. (2013 - nope, the biggest alter is close the beach every bit seen below.....)

....Ombak Resort, a novel seemingly lower midrange house which starts beachside in addition to extends dorsum maybe 200m to here. This house was nether construction inwards 2011 in addition to is likely the flashest on Coral Bay, although Shari La has some sweetness seaview aircon chalets.
Note that instantly behind photographic goggle box camera is....

....Ewan's cafe which had a crowd every fourth dimension I passed by. Tucker must hold out pretty good. They take away hold some neat looking budget huts to the left of camera.

These are what I'll call Shari La beaches 2 in addition to 3. #1 behind photographic goggle box camera is a chip bigger in addition to has some overnice shade in addition to resort sunlounges behind the beach. Access is from the resort although you lot could kayak or swim about from the primary beach or pier. Note Shari La has no safety goons in addition to is real relaxed hence outsiders could only take away hold the passage to the right at the bottom of reception stairs in addition to honour their way to these beaches.
The beaches themselves are nil to larn excited nearly likewise seclusion. I snorkelled in addition to institute coral real ordinary. The fish scene was non bad in addition to should maintain non-hardline snorkellers happy.
I made Shari La my 3rd halt on the 2013 Perhentians see - volition endeavour to verbalize Lady Tezza into including it inwards her trip report.

Southern due west coast beaches

Um, good Petani/Impiani is truly on the southward coast, but its accessed via the due west coast track.

Mira Bay is 25 minutes southward of Coral Bay along the surprising skillful coastal walking track. This house is real appealing - overnice sand which extends quite a distance into the water, no apparent depression tide blues in addition to 1 budget resort - click to expand to run into some of their chalets to a greater extent than clearly. I'm penciling this 1 inwards next see - it is less isolated than D'Lagoon with Coral Bay in addition to Long Beach restaurants in addition to bars an like shooting fish in a barrel 25 in addition to 35 infinitesimal shaded jungle-by-the-sea walk away. Note nearly 1 3rd of the beach is hidden past times the rock/headland on the right of shot - but this is soundless a compact beach. 
2013 - good I didn't remain hither latest trip, but called past times again. Looked to take away hold the biggest concentration of traveller-types of all the places I visited on both islands (although the closest I got to D'Lagoon, some other pop travellers' haunt, was offshore on the arrival speedboat when nosotros dropped some guests off).

Petani/Impiani Beach is some other 10 minutes farther southward along the track. Technically this is non eastward coast but on Kecil's southward coast. It may good hold out the nicest beach on Kecil - quite long (those rocks on the sand inwards far background are truly only a niggling past times mid-beach, in addition to carve upward Petani beach from Impiani) - lovely H2O in addition to no low-tide problems, sand maybe non every bit white every bit some but existent create clean in addition to going a long way out into the H2O earlier rocks/coral take away hold over.
Arguably you lot are to a greater extent than isolated from the activeness of Coral in addition to Long Beaches, but the coastal rails continutes 10-15 minutes to the hamlet where at that spot are plenty of shops in addition to restaurants, in addition to this beach is getting pretty unopen to the south-east in addition to southern beaches of Besar for non too expensive taxi boat trips. Petani Beach resort unopen to photographic goggle box camera is budget/flashpacker criterion - the novel Impiani (see below) when it opens seems destined to hold out to a greater extent than upmarket.

All the old bungalows at Impiani had been pulled downwards in addition to these rather overnice looking jobs seemed nearly 70% complete. Big race for high flavor completion likely - this was shot inwards the concluding days of June which suggests they are a chip behind.

Sept 2013 - Impiani upward in addition to running, in addition to progress marches on with a novel articulation nether construction at right. No indication of name.

TREKKING ON KECIL
Walkers on the modest isle tin larn a existent skillful workout - a lot of it thru pretty attractive jungle areas.

The Northern Track

This leaves the Long Beach-Coral Beach rails pretty unopen to Long Beach (look for the electricity lines to the air current generators). You tin also access from behind some of the beach resorts if you lot know where to look. The outset one-half threescore minutes is mainly a steady climb upward to the generators - a narrow jungle path inwards some areas, a heavily eroded vehicle rails inwards others in addition to a ameliorate surfaced vehicle rails towards the top. Slopes are mainly moderate but at that spot are a few brusk steep pinches.

The air current turbines, sadly non inwards performance the whole fourth dimension I was on the Perhentians despite overnice wind. However the chemical compound also has a large expanse of solar panels (foreground) in addition to judging past times the hum from the nearby transformers, they were working well.

Note the rails to D'Lagoon continues along the debate behind camera (this was taken from the northern halt of the solar farm) from where it starts dropping real steeply downwards a vehicle road. There is also a real overnice observation platform of which you lot tin just run into business office at left of shot - this has skillful views of the due north of the isle but sadly non to the south. There is a fantastic stairway which runs from this platform way downwards to the ocean on the upper left coast - don't hold out tempted to take away hold this every bit a short-cut to D'Lagoon. See next pix for detail.

After 10 minutes walk downwards the real steep route you lot volition run into a D'Lagoon signposted rails leading into the jungle to the right - this winds in addition to drops (no super steep slopes) for some other xxx minutes to the resort.

Pretty impressive laid of steps from air current turbines to ocean on western side. Click to run into observation platform upward close air current generators in addition to how ocean halt of the pier has fallen victim to monsoon flavor ocean moving ridge attack.
Go downwards these steps past times all agency if you lot fancy a swim inwards crystal clear H2O every bit 1 distich were doing when I visited, but don't retrieve similar me that it looks only a fifteen infinitesimal rock-hop across to D'Lagoon behind camera. I don't know why I do this - every bit a onetime point-break surfer, I hate rock-hopping.

The problem with rock-hopping is that unseen transverse gutters from the ocean tin effort you lot to climb up/inland - which happened twice along this route. I started the rock-hop off the outset apartment department of walkway from the H2O way downwards at that spot - notice I am at nowadays upward a fair chip closer to top of stair level. If this wasn't a skillful plenty work-out, I hence came to a patch of inpenetrable jungle undergrowth at the top of the 2d gutter - if at that spot is 1 thing I loathe to a greater extent than than rock-hopping it's bush-bashing - trip roots, thorns, scarlet ants pouring downwards my shirt etc. Anyway, what looked similar fifteen minutes turned into a xc infinitesimal saga.

The South-West Coastal Track

This runs all the way from Coral Bay about to the hamlet inwards the south-east of the island. Maybe an threescore minutes inwards total for a skillful walker. It is a existent overnice jaunt - shaded past times jungle most of the way but with the ocean next in addition to some overnice beaches along the way, real skillful surface, handrails on the few sections of stairs, surprisingly apartment for the outset department to Mira Beach, non too much worse from at that spot to Petani/Impiani beach, a few steeper but non heartbreaking sections the next 10-15 minutes to the village.
To larn to the start, force past times the chalets on the rocks instantly southward of Coral Bay's beach.

Part of the south-west track. Note H2O pipeline which runs all the way from a good just behind Turtle Beach inwards the far north-west of Kecil to the hamlet inwards the far south-east.

This department of the hamlet just due north of the pier has a lot of eats stands to cater for snorkel trip boats which force inwards for lunch. There is a strip of restaurants in addition to shops out of pic to the right. The hamlet is quite large in addition to has a sizable schoolhouse in addition to interestingly, a block of flash looking novel town houses yet to hold out occupied just behind the pier - don't tell me Johor Bahru's rich are investing inwards isle condos. There is a fair strip of sand to the southward - a chip daggy with old unused boats in addition to angling manufacture junk, but no doubtfulness it could hold out cleaned upward for the novel inhabitants.

The hamlet is non tiny in addition to the backstreets demo the typical isle lifestyle of the locals.

Village to Long Beach Track
I wasn't aware of this (De Panarik's in addition to guide books' maps don't demo it) but my taxi boat driver from the hamlet to Long Beach pointed out an exposed novel department thru the trees unopen to the hamlet which looked real similar to the south-east track.
However this does non go far right thru yet - I went looking at the Long Beach halt in addition to all I could honour was a small, real fossil oil in addition to steep rails along the ability lines heading towards the hamlet from where they cross the Coral Bay-Long Beach track. I gave upward after 10 minutes - I had done the ii other Kecil tracks just earlier in addition to was inwards no mood to go slogging upward some steep fossil oil jungle path.
Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 local concern possessor said yes, you lot could larn all the way to the village, the novel rails volition extend itself along this this way but at the fourth dimension of my see (late June 2011) a recent land-slip had made progress along the narrow rails additionally difficult.
UPDATE LATE JULY 2011 - mudshark82 who is currently inwards the Perhentians sent me this information nearly the hamlet to Long Beach trek: There are sure enough some fossil oil parts to trek but at that spot is a large bluish pipeline running through the jungle, I followed that for a chip every bit it had a fossil oil footpath amongst it. Then I got to a signal with a tough uphill climb where several trees had been cutting down. At this signal I was slightly concerned that if I had to go dorsum the way I came I wouldn't go far downwards on my feet.
Once I reached the top of the clearing I followed a path made past times a truck or construction vehicle, my guess, at to the lowest degree 2 years ago. Although tricky at parts this eventually led me to The nurture of Rock Garden (?).
retrieve this trek would hold out much to a greater extent than hard going the opposite way, but non impossible. There are a handful of points where I had options of different routes I could take away hold in addition to I went with what looked best.
This is 1 for the adventurer!

Update 2013 - I figured maybe the path had to hold out finished hence I tried again, this fourth dimension from the hamlet end. I had to brand my way past times the ii novel construction sites due north of the village......

The path due north of the hamlet goes about the inland side of this one.

And volition most sure enough go past times on the coastal side of this one. Tip, follow the ability lines.

....from where a real similar paved path to the south-west rails (looked nearly the same age) headed due north thru the rainforest real unopen to the coastal rocks, next the ability lines. This was a  nice like shooting fish in a barrel walk but after nearly 10 minutes information technology JUST STOPPED. Looks similar the dudes ran out of money....

....but I institute a reasonable bush rails heading north....

....This bush rails wasn't too bad going but after nearly v minutes it kinda disappeared. I had a await about - I could run into a H2O pipeline nearly 50m higher inwards the rainforest but when I slogged upward to it at that spot was no bush rails running adjacent. I later figured locals maybe walk along the top of the pipeline.
So I headed downwards to the stone platform (there was a poorly defined route heading down, looked similar some people had headed that way). Not a skillful thought - it was reasonably like shooting fish in a barrel going for nearly 10 minutes, but hence I striking a serial of gutters cutting into the platform which made me climb way upward the seaside rocks in addition to inwards a few cases into the rainforest for some of my hated bush bashing. After nearly 50 minutes of that I could run into Long Beach but it was soundless a skillful 700m away with a few to a greater extent than gutters between. Time to give that the large miss.....

..I headed upward into the rainforest at a signal where I could run into the H2O pipeline non too far away. From at that spot I did 10 minutes or hence of walking along the top of same. THIS I DON'T RECOMMEND. The pipeline is nearly 250mm inwards diameter in addition to the top seemed reasonably cleaned past times other other walkers, but things tin larn existent tricky when you lot come upward to some rainforest vegetation laying over the piping - at 1 signal I slipped in addition to was lucky non the autumn off in addition to interruption my neck. 
So every bit before long every bit I saw the ability lines higher inwards the jungle again, I crossed over in addition to followed the fossil oil walking rails alongside. This dropped in addition to climbed, at 1 phase running beside Rock Garden bungalows which is the southern-most resort at Long Beach (although considerably southward in addition to higher than the sand). Finally after climbing to a greater extent than than dropping the ability delineate rails came out at the cross isle path betwixt Long Beach in addition to Coral Bay, nearly 300m inwards from the former.

Time-wise the practise was a joke - it had taken me nearly fourscore minutes to walk from Coral Bay downwards the due west coast about to the hamlet in addition to hence due north to where the eastward coast walking path disappeared - it hence took me some other fourscore minutes to go the concluding 20% to Long Beach.

But I'm non giving up. Too many people from the hamlet operate at Long Beach/Coral Beach for at that spot non to hold out a quicker/less hard walking route. With the aid of Google Earth, mudshark82's comments higher upward in addition to my ain observations along the way, I reckon I mightiness take away hold it figured out....

....Only a few minutes along the nicely paved rails due north of the novel developments close the hamlet I noticed the ability lines turned hard left in addition to headed steeply uphill into the rainforest. There seemed to hold out a reasonably cleared department amongst for walking. I didn't caput upward at that spot - the paved coastal path seemed at that phase by far the easier route. But this is definitely the ability delineate path I later took unopen to Rock Garden resort. Who knows what the intermediate department is like? This is the large take away a opportunity fer you lot intrepid trekkers to honour out in addition to ship a report. And a few pix. See yer stuff right here, trendsetters!!

BOOZE ON KECIL
Plenty of bars in addition to restaurants on Long Beach tin furnish a beer etc. Coral Bay has beer at the meshing articulation towards the southward of the beach just brusk of Senja Bay resort. Not sure nearly newer places like Ombak resort in addition to Ewan's cafe. From memory, D'Lagoon resort had beer. Not sure nearly the southern due west coast places.

SENJA BAY RESORT
When I shifted across to Kecil from Besar inwards 2011 I stayed at Senja Bay Resort. I chose this because I wanted to base of operations myself at Coral Bay that trip (I stayed on Long Beach inwards '99) in addition to because Senja is 1 of the few non expensive places on the isle you lot tin pre-book direct via their website past times credit card - most joints desire an electronic transfer into their banking enterprise concern human relationship which my Aussie banking enterprise is non interested inwards - btw I later institute De Panarik's website an first-class way of booking these due north eastward islands past times credit card - I used that for Puala Redang).

I got me a large fan/hot H2O room with breakfast for 100rm a night. This room was likely a chip overpriced, but was sure enough spacious in addition to create clean in addition to had a swell view. The breakfast was basic - 3 bits of toast in addition to jam plus unlimited tea/coffee but for 3rm you lot could larn a plate of eggs (or other stuff off the carte at diverse prices) to supplement is. The alternative included Asian breakfast looked to a greater extent than filling. Other meals inwards the large panoramic eatery overlooking the bay in addition to beach were real skillful value in addition to pretty tasty. The eatery showed movies at night. No booze but the next meshing house sells this in addition to the host has heaps of information nearly the island.
Senja service was pretty slick in addition to cheerful. Note they volition only service your room if you lot ask.

Senja Bay - at the far southern halt of Coral Bay's beach. The eatery is the bigger edifice quaternary from right, the meshing articulation the bluish roof house far left. My chalet is unseen on the quaternary storey way upward inwards the trees. If you lot click to expand you lot volition hold out able to run into the modest Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 frame chalets straight behind the sand on the left - at 100rm you lot are definitely paying for position. There are to a greater extent than expensive aircon chalets for the flashpackers in addition to depression midrangers on the lower loma levels. Beach pretty overnice here, some Sun lounges nether trees which give shade for much of the day. Real overnice sunsets. Note at that spot are some nicely positioned budget travellers' resorts along the rocks for nearly 150m right of shot.

Another Dave Elliot shot - this fourth dimension from '02. No Senja in addition to few other places. Okay, Coral Bay is at nowadays pretty much built out - but you lot tin larn similar to the higher upward inwards 2011 a one-half hour's walk southward at Mira in addition to Petani/Impiani.


View from my high balcony at Senja Resort. Coral inwards front end of resort pretty ordinary except for a few patches way out close sunbathing platforms. Plenty of fish. Very shallow a fair way off shore at depression tide. Apparently snorkelling in addition to diving out about those islands are pretty good. Senja has a dive outfit. Steps upward to my chalet a skillful fitness workout - solidly constructed in addition to good lit at night.



GENERAL INFO

SNORKELLING IN THE PERHENTIANS

I reckon skillful snorkelling should take away hold overnice coral or something special similar turtles. The map higher upward reflects this. But plenty of people just similar lots of fish to banking enterprise check out - from that viewpoint I could add together many other skillful places. Note with the reject of D'Lagoon all the top places visited past times the snorkelling boat trips are off the large island.

Looking for turtles inwards the channel betwixt the ii islands. Successful too - I waited until the guys saw 1 in addition to hence jumped in.
We followed ii separate ones for a several minutes each over a menstruum of nearly 20 minutes. One was quite large in addition to when I dived downwards (the H2O is only nearly 4m deep hither with a mainly sandy bottom) I noticed he/she had ii sucker fish attached to the underside. This large 1 chose our menstruum of observation every bit a fourth dimension to swim to the surface for 1 of the infrequent intakes of air, which gave the surface snorkellers an extra thrill.

I was impressed past times the coral in addition to fish at the Perhentians, much ameliorate than anything I take away hold seen inwards Thailand inwards the past times year, in addition to 2d only inwards Malaysia to the national commons HQ snorkelling zone at Pulau Redang.
Best Perhentian snorkelling off the beach I saw was on the northern side of Abdul's pier on Besar, followed past times that island's Bubble's beach. I don't truly count Shark Point every bit off the beach unless you lot are a ratbag similar me in addition to desire to do a 350m swim without fins each way - but when I got out at that spot were good over a dozen snorkelling trip boats in addition to a distich of dive boats. I saw v reef sharks in addition to some overnice coral inwards the 20 minutes or hence I stayed inwards the skillful zone. There seemed to hold out a greater issue of bigger fish inwards this expanse too. Note real pathetic broken/dead coral in addition to real shallow H2O fifty-fifty mid tide closer the beach inwards this headland zone.

Kecil's D'Lagoon which was impressive inwards '99 has sadly deteriorated. Stick unopen to the right side rocks nearly 40m out for the best stuff.

The best way to experience snorkelling at the Perhentians is to take away hold 1 of the plentiful snorkelling twenty-four hours trips which typically see v or vi sites over a menstruum of 3 hours or hence for a reasonable xxx to 40rm (June/July 2011). Most resorts in addition to a lot of move desks in addition to bar/restaurants tin lay these on.
The snorkelling trip I took that see was operated past times Arwana Resort on Besar - dissimilar most, it does 3 sites in addition to hopes you lot volition sign upward for the afternoon or next day's trip for some other 3 sites. We visited Turtle Bay, went turtle-spotting mid-channel off Abdul's pier in addition to hence seat inwards at the pier to banking enterprise check the stuff both sides.

Independently, I've also swum out to banking enterprise check coral/fish off the beach at Coral Bay in addition to D'lagoon on Kecil in addition to Shark Point, Coral View in addition to Bubble's on Besar. Nor to get upward lots of repeats at Abdul's/Tuna bay when I stayed on that beach inwards Sept 2013.

Malay tourists (you tin tell past times the flotation vests) banking enterprise check the coral close the pier at Tuna Bay. At depression tide this started just 2 meters from the shore in addition to was too shallow to easily float across. Very skillful lineament for SE Asia.

I saw people engrossed inwards snorkelling at several other spots non known for skillful coral - but at that spot ever seem to hold out plenty of fish around, in addition to for many people these seem the to a greater extent than interesting attraction.

Multi-tasking off Bubble's Beach - looks similar dad wanted to go snorkelling, mum wanted him to hear the toddler. So dad had junior strapped to his dorsum consummate with neat sun-hat. Kid seemed perfectly happy to banking enterprise check the above-water scene in addition to assist with the kicking piece dad scoped out the coral in addition to fish.
This is a chip different from my darlin' Anna who about the same historic menstruum insisted on a laid of swimming goggles in addition to would cling to my shoulders every bit I headed for the bottom. She could concluding for xxx seconds or hence earlier she allow go in addition to shot to the surface for the large breath. Then when I surfaced she would abuse me for going too deep. Daughters.

Less discerning people don't tending if the coral isn't great. As long every bit the H2O is super clear in addition to at that spot is plenty fish about they are happy - every bit this lady close Adam in addition to Eve beach seemed to hold out for an extended time.


GETTING AROUND
You tin access most beaches on the same isle past times walking track. However sometimes these are indirect time-consumers or a existent steep slog, hence inwards such cases in addition to for swapping islands it's existent neat that the H2O taxis seem plentiful in addition to reasonably priced.

Taxi toll boards similar this are all about the island. (except the village) - prices are pretty skillful (although greenback they are for 1 somebody - it doubles for ii but I would negotiate for a large grouping - 4 people  don't eat x4 the fuel or fourth dimension every bit one), less than one-half those at Tioman for the same distances.
Naturally prices to exceptional places volition vary according to what beach you lot are on - this 2011 board was at Flora Bay on the southward side of Perhentian Besar.

CAMPING
Both military camp sites I saw were on the large isle - Besar. But Thai locals seem to pitch their tents anywhere hence likely you lot could do the same for 1 of the quieter beaches on Kecil.

Dining expanse of the Teluk Ke Ke military camp site at the southern due west of Besar. Lots of infinite behind inwards a shaded expanse for tents. Nice beach hither in addition to next - run into shots upward page.

These tents were pitched at the eastern-most resort on Flora Beach - Everfresh. Note the real steep jungle rails across to the other side of the isle starts just inland from these tents.


CRIME AND CROWDING
Recent traveller forums take away hold had bad press nearly high criminal offense levels inwards the Perhentians. An isle concern operator said things were real bad until the flavor earlier concluding - in addition to despite what local apologists said, much of the stealing in addition to drug taking was done past times isle dwellers, non blow-ins from the mainland.
After sustained complaints past times isle concern interests in addition to victims, mainland constabulary did multi raids involving dozens of cops in addition to sustained every twenty-four hours for over a week. They were pretty heavy handed in addition to hauled away whatever non-tourist who was institute inwards possession of large sums of unusual currency, passports etc or had cameras in addition to other consumer items they could non make receipts for. End of problem.

This sign just exterior D'Lagoon resort is likely a carry-over from the bad old days. However it's pretty skillful advice at whatever time, anywhere. I'm ever reluctant to allow my handbag out of site when swimming at Bondi Beach inwards Australia.

High flavor crowding has also been a characteristic of recent past times years with move forums advising people to mass ahead. Not hence my see - all accommdation seemed to take away hold plenty of spare capacity with maybe the exception of Bubble's Dive Resort. But perchance the real halt of June is a chip early inwards the season? I doubtfulness it - the forum's state whatever fourth dimension from the start of June to early September ordinarily sees overcrowding. I reckon the northern hemisphere financial crisis has a lot to answer for - if people in addition to governments pass beyond their agency at that spot has to hold out some downside.
There volition hold out to a greater extent than than some - I'm writing this inwards mid July 2011. I reckon the Euro as nosotros know it will non be inside a year.
UPDATE LATE JULY 2011 - maybe I spoke a chip too soon. mudshark82 who is currently inwards the Perhentians tells me things take away hold picked upward with visitor numbers in addition to at that spot are real few vacancies at Long Beach in addition to Coral Bay.
What a difference 3 weeks tin make. I soundless reckon the Euro zone every bit it is at nowadays is a goner.
UPDATE SEPTEMBER 2013 - um, good the Euro is soundless with us in addition to membership of the matrimony hasn't changed. The eauro also hasn't depreciated anywhere close every bit much every bit it should. But I reckon nosotros volition take away hold continuing crises for many years to come. The whole thought of monetary matrimony without financial in addition to political matrimony is unsustainable, the production of arrogant dreamers.

RUBBISH MANAGEMENT
Looks similar the Marine National Park which administers most of the Perhentian Islands has instituted a dorsum to the mainland trash organization to avoid unsightly/unhealthy isle land-fills. I saw a similar boat at Pulau Kapas which is also inside the Marine National Park.


GETTING THERE
Many people wing into nearby Kota Bharu from where drome taxis tin take away hold you lot direct to Kuala Besut, the mainlnand pier for the Perhentians for a reasonable sum. There are booking agents at the drome tin organise carry including boat tickets in addition to mass you lot accommodation.
In 2013 nosotros flew inwards to KB belatedly at night, stayed inwards a local hotel in addition to caught a taxi downwards to Kuala Besut pier next morning time for rm60.

You tin move to Kota Bhuru from KL in addition to Singapore past times the jungle railway. The KB station is non right inwards town but transfers are good.

Most people entering from Thailand via Sungai Kolok (Golok) brand their way to Kota Bharu in addition to hence grab a taxi or motorcoach to Kuala Besut. Kota invitee houses tin organise taxis or minibuses for travellers. SP Bumi also run a motorcoach direct to Kuala Besut from the motorcoach station.
I reckon a ameliorate way from the border is a direct taxi to the pier - especially if you lot tin portion the cost with other travellers. The direct route cuts across the inveted L shape border-Kota Bharu-pier route - in addition to avoids Kota's traffic.

From the southward on limited buses to Kota Bharu from KL, Johor Bahru, Mersing, Cherating in addition to Kuantan enquire the conductor to allow you lot off at the junction on route 3 for the side route to Kuala Besut from where waiting taxis volition take away hold you lot the 15km to the pier. There is also a local motorcoach takes this route but it runs infrequently.
It is also possible to grab local buses from every bit far southward every bit Kuantan direct to the pier but this would involve at to the lowest degree 4 changes, condiderable fourth dimension gaps in addition to the buses tin larn super crowded in addition to real very slow.

SP Bumi run a local motorcoach from Kuala Terengganu motorcoach station to the pier nearly every 2 hours.

In 2011 I came upward from Merang, the pier for Puala Redang. I grabbed a private carry guy (there were no taxis at the pier) who took me the 1 threescore minutes tip for rm80 which I thought was reasonable value. Um, maybe non - inwards 2013 I did the contrary trip inwards a taxi for rm70.

The pier at Kuala Besut is quite unopen to the primary route span across the estuary. There is an arcade with a bunch of tour operators leading to the pier in addition to a heap to a greater extent than on the street adjacent. Any of these tin sell you lot boat tickets (and adjust accommodation if you lot take away hold non booked) - each house seems to run its ain speedboat in addition to these depart fairly regularly for the one-half threescore minutes run. However render boats run at the laid times of 0800, 1200 in addition to 1500. Tickets cost 35rm 1 way/70 return. If you lot take away hold a render ticket allow your accommodation know the twenty-four hours earlier you lot depart - it doesn't affair if you lot take away hold changed resorts and/or islands. Tip - if at that spot is a large crowd waiting for the render boat in addition to you lot demand to brand a motorcoach or flight, brand sure you lot are towards the front end of the loading queue - otherwise you lot may take away hold to hold back 20 minutes or hence for a backup boat.

Typical isle link boat at Kuala Besut. You may take away hold to hold back a piece for at to the lowest degree 8 or hence passengers but this has never taken long on my trips, in addition to the latest was shoulder flavor non-weekend.


GETTING AWAY
Accommodation places, restaurants in addition to move desks on the isle take away hold a wealth of data nearly onward carry from Kuala Besut. They tin organise pretty criterion stuff similar KL or Kota Bharu but tin also larn you lot to Taman Negara, into Thailand, the due west coast of peninsula Malaysia etc.
BTW on my 99 see I managed to brand the belatedly morning time motorcoach out of the Thailand border town of Sungai Kolok to Bangkok past times taking the outset boat out of the Perhentians in addition to a shared taxi direct to the border - this motorcoach goes upward the eastward coast of southern Thailand in addition to I jumped out on the outskirts of Surathani inwards fourth dimension to larn downwards to the town pier on the river for the nighttime ferry to Phangan.
I noticed this latest see a Thai rail timetable at Senja Resort which showed a belatedly morning time educate out of Sungai Kolok to Bangkok which would also allow you lot to brand the southern Gulf isle nighttime ferries past times exiting the educate at the station due west of Surathani.

If you lot desire to grab a taxi or local motorcoach from Kuala Besut's pier, plow right out of the pier's arcade in addition to walk nearly 100m to the parking area. In 2011 I caught a local SP Bumi motorcoach hither (it doesn't hold back but comes downwards the pier route in addition to does a U-turn inwards the parking area) to Kota Terengganu for Puala Kapas - 2.2 hours to comprehend maybe 120km but only nearly 10rm.

If you lot are island-hopping to Lang Tengah or Redang you lot tin relieve a lot of fourth dimension chartering a boat (there is no regular service at the [late 2013] fourth dimension of writing). This would non hold out inexpensive - people suggested rm 450/500 - but the alternative of going dorsum to the mainland (rm35), catching a taxi to Merang (rm70) in addition to hence a ferry out to the other isle (rm55 to 70) starts to add together upward for to a greater extent than than 1 somebody in addition to is pretty fourth dimension consuming. For sure you lot would demand the 0800 boats from the isle to brand the Lang Tengah/Redang ferries which tend to leave of absence about 1100. If you lot just miss one, enquire about for the Mingstar boat which seems to leave of absence a chip later.
If you lot move direct from Perhentian past times charter boat I suggest you lot start reasonably early - some days the ocean breeze kicks inwards in addition to is rigid plenty past times 1100 to ensure a rough, moisture trip.
Note a lot of dive joints on Perhentian advertise trips to Redang - you lot may hold out able to hitch a ride for a price.

Comimg the other way at that spot are fewer boats on Redang in addition to way fewer on Lang Tengah, hence you lot mightiness honour charter costs higher.

Local angling boat nearly stock upward on supplies past times putting inwards at the hamlet pier on Kecil.

Lady Tezza's trip study of the Perhentians.


WARNING UPDATE
April 2014
Somtan2000 who is the convenor of the first-class move site TRAVELFISH, latterly posted this alert inwards his forum section:
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I'm midway through a Perhentians query trip in addition to just desire to give a chip of a move alert for Perhentian Kecil (the smaller, "party" island).

I was told of numerous cases, this flavor (which truly only started a calendar month or hence ago), of woman somebody travellers having their potable spiked at bars on Long Beach -- especially the beach bars squatting on the beach downwards inwards front end of Lemon Grass -- in addition to the women afterward beingness attacked and/or raped.

Care should also hold out taken walking the paved trail from Long Beach to Coral Beach (the 1 that goes past times the Tivoli/Perhentian Tropicana Inn backpacker factory) belatedly at night. It is close totally unlit in addition to walking it lonely at 2am piece trashed, without a torch in addition to wearing a bikini likely isn't wise. Don't walk it alone, in addition to purpose a torch (even a smartphone enshroud volition suffice).

Petty theft (again to a greater extent than often than non at the bars) but also from guesthouse bungalows is also a problem. Be sure to lock your windows in addition to door earlier heading out for the evening.

Drugs are all over the store -- I was offered weed, ketamine in addition to cocaine from a distich of local guys piece having a potable downwards at the beach bars.

Both the drug dealing (in my experience) in addition to the assaults (I was told) are primarily past times local guys.

It is imperative that you lot maintain an optic on your potable in addition to remain inwards control.

If you lot are assaulted, I was advised to suggest you lot should file a study with both the constabulary inwards Kuala Lumpur in addition to with your embassy in addition to non to bother with the constabulary inKota Bharuor Kuala Terengganu. Personally I'd brand the study inwards KT in addition to KL, but I'm just relaying what concern owners on Perhentian Kecil advised me. Kota Bharu is the closest town should you lot demand medical assistance next an onrush -- you lot tin larn a taxi direct from the port town (Kuala Besut).

Feel gratis to repost this to other move forums if you lot wish.

We'll hold out writing to a greater extent than nearly this inwards the coming weeks, but I just wanted to larn this headsup out now.

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If you lot are thinking of visiting the Perhentians you lot mightiness also hold out interested inwards nearby PULAU KAPAS, the nicest isle I take away hold visited inwards years in addition to the fifty-fifty closer PULAU REDANG, which is non just shabby. Not to get upward the fifty-fifty closer LANG TENGAH.
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NOTE - IF YOU SEE ANY MISTAKES OR HAVE EXTRA INFORMATION PLEASE POST THEM BELOW. IF YOU HAVE Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 QUESTION PLEASE ASK information technology ON THE FORUM PAGE ACCESSED VIA THE INDEX WHICH I CHECK MOST DAYS - I DON'T VISIT THESE INDIVIDUAL ISLAND PAGES VERY OFTEN.
IF YOU VISIT THE ISLANDS AND WANT TO UPDATE U.S. CHECK OUT THE READERS' TRIP REPORT SECTION VIA THE INDEX.

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